I've been going to Las Vegas for about 20 years now - mainly on business for conventions, trade shows or meetings. Over the years, I've stayed in a lot of different hotels and had meetings in the suites of many others. I'll give you my impressions on what are the better ones and the ones to stay away from.
Actually, I've always said that every American should be sentenced to spend three days in Las Vegas at least once in their life. Everything is so over the top. It hits you when you see the video poker and slot machines in the terminal when you walk off your plane, it hits you even more when you drive the legendary Las Vegas Strip for the first time, and it hits you when you walk into any one of a couple dozen hotels and casinos situated throughout Vegas.
The Bad Ones -
Let's start out with the ones that I've stayed at that were just downright nasty. The only thing I can think the reason the amenities in the rooms are so sparse is that they don't want you spending any time in them other than to sleep, shower and change clothes. These are the places that allow you to get the local channels, possibly CNN or ESPN, and then have five or six in-house channels that are devoted to nothing but the hotel, casino or how to gamble. The ones I like are the ones that have an in-room Keno channel.
Circus Circus, in the 60's, was one of the first places that actually did something novel in getting people to come to stay and gamble. They literally put a circus, complete with high wire acts, in the middle of the casino. People were playing the slots and there was the great Frederico doing his trapeze stunts above them.
I stayed at Circus Circus one year for a couple of nights. The rooms were huge, but that was about it. You had a bed, a dresser, a television on a pedestal stand, a night stand and that was about it. The only thing Circus Circus has going for it is that in all this mess there's the world class restaurant "The Steak House" there. See my review of The Steak House here.
Another place that I detested was the Stratosphere. First of all, it's on the fringes of a very bad area of Las Vegas. We saw an arrest one morning at 7:30 of a half-naked black guy fighting police officers, even after they sprayed him with mace. It took six cops to subdue the guy. Secondly, there's not much too it. It's like they ran out of money when they constructed the place. And third, I just felt we got horrible customer service at the Stratosphere.
The Stratosphere was originally started by noted gambler Bob Stupak, who owned Bob Stupak's Vegas World on the same site for a number of years. Stupak wanted to build a tower that would be the largest structure west of the Mississippi. Original plans called for the tower to be nearly 2000 feet high, but the FAA said that a tower of that size would interfere with alternate flight paths for McCarran International Airport.
Bob Stupak
Stupak is notorious around Las Vegas for running coupon book scams, for running for mayor twice (and losing big - twice), and is rumored to be involved with heavy cocaine usage. He won a million bucks on a Super Bowl bet one year. He counted mob bosses as close friends. And he reportedly recorded a number of singles under the name of Bobby Star.
During construction, Stupak was in a horrendous motorcycle accident and broke every bone in his face. His face was reconstructed into a hideous figure, but it was a miracle that he could even function in life again, given that they thought he'd end up in a vegetative state.
Once the Stratosphere tower was finished, and the hotel and casino were built along with it at a cost of $500 million bucks, the place literally went belly up. Stupak and investors lost over $100 million bucks and the Stratosphere was eventually taken over the Grand Casinos organization.
One of the great books to read about Las Vegas greed, broken dreams, broken promises and how to piss away $100 million dollars is "No Limit - The Rise and Fall of Bob Stupak and Las Vegas' Stratosphere Tower".
The rooms at the Stratosphere are also spartan and pretty low rent. The bathroom is the size of most closets. It just doesn't have a comfortable feel to the place. They definitely want you to be in the casino and not in the room. But I will tell you - go to the top of the Stratosphere Tower and look out over the city. It's pretty nifty. And if you dare, you can ride the world's highest roller coaster at the top of the tower, or be shot 150 feet in the air by the Big Shot.
But I'll never stay there again.
The other place that I've stayed that I won't go back to is Excalibur. Situated at the corner of Tropicana and S. Las Vegas Blvd., Excalibur has a medieval theme to it, complete with towers and jousting and dumb shits dressed up like serfs and jesters. Excalibur was built by the same people who own Circus Circus and at the time it opened in 1990, it was the largest hotel in Las Vegas with 4,000 rooms. The rooms, like Circus Circus, are big with little amenities. And where did they find the company to make the hideous carpet they laid in the rooms?
A step up, but not by much, is the Imperial Palace. Built by Ralph Engelstad, a North Dakota native who was reputed to be a Nazi sympathizer (he once hosted a "Hitler's Birthday" party at the Imperial Palace, replete with Englestad wearing Nazi clothing), some say the Imperial Palace looks like a swastika from the air.
Ralph Engelstad
The rooms are small, the shower heads are about five feet off the ground. For a guy like me who is 6'2", you have to literally duck under the shower to get your head wet. But it's nicer than the other three I've mentioned.
Actually, the neat thing about The Imperial Palace is the museum of historic cars Engelstad built on the second floor of the place. Engelstad had one of largest collections of famous (and infamous) cars in the world, and he showed many of them in his museum. He had Hitler's parade car on display, as well as presidential limousines from the Truman thru Nixon years. He had one of Johnny Carson's old cars and a number of other interesting automobiles. It was worth the time I took to go through the place.
The Better Ones -
Harrah's - I've always liked Harrah's because it isn't as big as some of the other hotels, it's centrally located among a lot of hotels and restaurants on the strip, you don't have to traipse through a large casino to get to your room and it's usually cheaper than many of the other hotels in the immediate area. The rooms are nice and roomy, beds are comfortable, and you don't get the notion that they want you to not be in the room at Harrah's.
The Flamingo - I stayed at the Flamingo when it was a Hilton property in 1995 and I liked it a lot. At that point in time, it was the nicest place I'd stayed in Las Vegas. Then I was back in 2000 and we stayed there when it was no longer a Hilton property and I thought it had slipped considerably from what it was. It was still nice, but getting tired. It's now under the Caesar's umbrella, which is ultimately owned by Harrah's.
And there's still a lot of history to the place. The original Flamingo was started by Bugsy Siegel - the original hotel used to be out back by the pool, but that was torn down a few years ago to put up a Hilton resort tower and water park in its place.
Benjamin 'Bugsy' Siegel
I understand that Caesar's/Harrah's has put a lot of money back into the hotel to bring it back up to date. I like The Flamingo for the history and because of its central location to some of the other large hotels in the immediate area. I would probably stay there again just to see if they really have cleaned the place up.
Golden Nugget - Steve Wynn, who built the Mirage, Bellagio and other Las Vegas hotels, bought and restored the Golden Nugget to it's original ornate style in the 1980's. But he sort of lost focus on the place and it started to falter a little, getting tired here and there. The Golden Nugget has since been bought by the Landry Restaurant corporation and I understand there's a nice renovation going on again. My present company used to stay at the Golden Nugget each year for CES, mainly because it was away from the strip and it was cheaper than a lot of the bigger name hotels on the strip.
And, of course, right out the front door of the Golden Nugget casino is Fremont Street and the Fremont Street Experience. The main attraction of the Fremont Street Experience is a canopy that stretches three blocks over Fremont Street that has millions of tiny bulbs that can make color images and displays. There are a number of high quality speakers that are positioned under the canopy that play music in sync with the light show from above. It's really kind of neat. They play the show every hour at the top of the hour and the shows differ each time.
MGM Grand - The MGM Grand took over the crown of the Biggest Hotel In Vegas when it opened. When I found out that we were going to stay at the MGM Grand I was disappointed. Disappointed in knowing how big the friggin' Excalibur was and how long it took to get from the parking garage to the room, and knowing that it would probably be worse at MGM. I was pleasantly surprised. It wasn't that long of a walk from the garage to the hotel. The walk to the elevators took you around the casino and not through it. And the elevator door was about 25 feet from the door to my room. I liked the MGM Grand - good restaurants, it was clean, the rooms were nice. I'd stay there again.
Bally's - I stayed at Bally's a couple of nights when I was in Las Vegas for a small trade show one time. Bally's used to be the original MGM Grand. It opened in 1973 and had 2000 rooms on 26 floors. In November of 1980, a fire broke out in the kitchen area and quickly spread throughout the casino area. Smoke and fire killed over 80 people and injured over 700 more. The MGM Grand fire showed two things - that the Las Vegas fire department was not equipped to fight fires in the tall hotels, and that a proper sprinkler system throughout the hotel would have more than likely stopped the fire.
But the hotel was rebuilt by Bally's Entertainment, which then sold the hotel to Caesar's a number of years later.
The room I had was nice. It had a nice view of the former Dunes hotel and casino and the Las Vegas Strip. It was comfortable and the price was reasonable. I'd stay at Bally's again, too.
The Riviera - The "Riv" was one of the nicer hotels in the 70's and 80's, but when I stayed there in the 90's it was a tired, old remnant of days gone by. I haven't been in the Riviera since I stayed there in 1996 for a couple nights, but I understand there's been some renovations. Still, it would have taken a lot to get that place back to how it was when I first walked into the place in 1986.
The Best Ones -
Las Vegas Hilton - We just stayed for five nights at the Las Vegas Hilton and used four suites for showrooms for our equipment for CES. Two of the suites on the 28th floor had adjoining single rooms, the other two had an adjoining king bed room, and an adjoining two queen bed room. The main suite room had a comfortable Murphy bed that came down out of a decorative cabinet. It was a lot of space and no one got in each others way at night. That was kind of nice.
The Las Vegas Hilton has stood the test of time. It was a great place when it was built in the 60's, and it's still a nice place 40 years later. The restaurants in the place are OK, nothing special, and you can't beat the location (off the strip on Paradise Road, next to the Las Vegas Convention Center).
We're going to do the suites at the Hilton again next year for the Consumer Electronics Show. It really made the show much more palatable to work.
The Mirage - I stayed at the Mirage for a couple nights when I accompanied my old boss out to Las Vegas for a distribution meeting in March of 2000. I'd always wanted to stay at the Mirage - it was always one of my favorite places to visit for meetings or to stroll through. It always smells so fragrant in The Mirage. And, of course, you've got the White Tigers in their glassed in den, the dolphins out back, and the volcano out front.
I wasn't disappointed in the rooms, although I'd been in many of the rooms and suites prior to staying there. The beds were nice, the rooms were spacious, it was comfortable and the ceiling to floor, wall to wall windows afforded some of the best views of Las Vegas from any hotel. I wouldn't mind staying there again.
The Luxor - The pyramid hotel. The one with the bright light at the top. So bright, that airline pilots use it as a visual aid when they're about 150 to 200 miles away.
I went out early for CES one year and was surprised to find that my buddy, Todd Bishop, and his wife had a corner suite at the Luxor for New Year's Eve. Todd's mother-in-law had gotten married in Las Vegas and she and her husband decided to go back to Ohio a day early, so they gave Todd and his wife, Lisa, the room to use for an evening. It was a two bedroom suite. The main bedroom had a fan-shaped jacuzzi in the corner looking out the window. The second bedroom was roomy and comfortable. It had a nice little living room and a wet bar. It was pretty neat. I kind of felt like the third wheel when they asked me to stay with them, but having my own room sure was nice.
I'd been in there before for a couple meetings. The elevators are unique in that they move in an angle up and down to accommodate the angle of the pyramid. It's pretty interesting.
Monte Carlo - We just stayed at the Monte Carlo for one night this year. We sort of screwed up our travel plans and found that we needed to be in Las Vegas a night earlier for set up at the Hilton the next day. The only problem was that we couldn't get into the Hilton on the night of January 3. So, we stayed at the Monte Carlo.
I'd been in a couple rooms at the Monte Carlo in the past and they're typical of the higher end hotels in Vegas. Nice amenities, roomy, comfortable. It was like the Hilton or the Mirage or any one of the good hotels up and down the Strip. Glad I got a chance to try it out.
Rating the ones I've been in the rooms or suites for meetings, but have not stayed at -
Stardust - A pit, even with the renovations. It's so bad they announced recently they're going to tear it down and put up a large hotel, casino, entertainment and shopping complex in its spot. It's supposed to open in 2010.
Tropicana - Also a pit. It may have been nice years ago, but it's a pit now.
Palace Station - Non-descript hotel away from everything. Rooms are nothing to write home about.
Sahara - It was a pit, but they've done some refurbishing. But as a wise man once told me, "You can polish a turd, but in the end it's still a turd."
Alexis Park - This, at one time, was one of the nicer hotels in Las Vegas. The rooms were little courtyard suites and very comfortable. Now, they're pretty ragged and tired. The Alexis Park also used to have a 4 star restaurant housed within the complex. It was very good. It was one of the very few good restaurants in Las Vegas at the time, I believe it was called Pegasus. It's not there now...
Treasure Island - Built by Steve Wynn and now owned by MGM/Mirage, Treasure Island is one of those places that I've not quite figured out what it's all about. I can't tell if it's a theme hotel/casino or what.
I've been in the suites and a couple regular rooms for meetings. I thought the suites were a little small, but functional. Rooms were OK, nothing spectacular.
And you know, in all the years I've gone out to Las Vegas, I've never once stopped to watch the Pirate Ship performance they have at night on the top of each hour up to about 11 p.m. I understand they've changed the little "skit" they do now and it's not even the same pirate theme they had before.
Hard Rock Hotel - The "hip" place to stay in Vegas with the 24-35 age demographic with not a lot of money. The lobby/casino area has a lot of memorabilia in the place. The rooms are good sized, there's a couple of neat bars in the place, their Mr. Lucky's "cafe" has very good food, and I've eaten at Nobu, the fine (and expensive) sushi eatery that is internationally renown. Of course, they have "The Joint", the large hall that has hosted the likes of everyone from Kid Rock to Crosby, Stills and Nash to Metallica to Fiona Apple. In fact, The Who were to kick off their North American tour at The Joint in June of 2002 when their longtime bassist, John Entwhistle, died of a heart attack induced by cocaine the night before the show.
The Hard Rock would be a good place to stay. As I said, it's definitely 'hip' and the place for the music people to stay in Vegas.
Caesar's Palace - Caesar's. Just saying the name evokes the old time history and grandeur of Las Vegas. From it's stately front lawn, to the Forum Shops. To the large sports book, to the Colosseum (which is the home performing base for Celine Dion and Elton John), it's tough to beat Caesar's as a hotel/casino in Vegas.
Going to the Forum Shops, alone, is worth the trip. It is one of the most over the top malls you'll ever witness. Complete with animated statues, mood lighting to simulate the outdoor light, and a number of boutiques, specialty stores and eateries, the Forum Shops set the agenda for the rest of the hotels in Vegas to catch up to Caesar's shopping complex.
The rooms are stately and ornate. They have wonderful views of the surrounding area. And they seem to be building more rooms each year I go out there. Caesar's is definitely one of the places I'd love to stay at in Vegas.
Rio - Rio is across the interstate and away from a number of the 'strip' hotels, but that doesn't diminish the fact that it's a wonderful hotel. Owned by Harrah's (who also owns Caesar's and Bally's), all the rooms at the Rio are suites. And nice ones, too. Large and spacious, with a nice touch of class to each room.
And Rio may have the most entertainment to choose from in Las Vegas in one spot. Penn and Teller have had a long running show at Rio, there's the Chippendales and the sexy show "Erockitica". Plus the Voodoo Lounge is one of the places to see and be seen. Located on the top floor of Rio, the Voodoo Lounge has not only one of the best views of Vegas and the hotels on the strip, but they have - bar none - the best looking cocktail waitresses in Las Vegas. They're classy, they're gorgeous, they're mature, they're intelligent. It's worth it to go have a couple drinks at the Voodoo Lounge.
And I'm not big on the buffets in Vegas (I've only eaten at one in all the time I've gone to Vegas), but I understand the Rio's World Buffet is the best in town.
New York New York - The suite rooms at New York New York are kind of small. They actually remind me of the suite rooms I've been in at Treasure Island. There's a small living room area and a bedroom off to the side. Nothing special.
And some of the rooms are situated where the roller coaster outside the place goes right by some rooms, causing a major ruckus (my current boss had to change rooms one night a few years ago because the roller coaster was keeping him up).
Walking around the main floor of the hotel/casino is interesting. They have it made up to resemble a New York neighborhood. There's a couple of good bars, including a "dueling piano" bar and an ESPN Sports Zone; and the very good Gallagher's steak house is there, as well. We had a chance to stay at New York New York a few years ago, but didn't pull the trigger. I'm not certain I would have liked it all that much.
Aladdin - Boy, they really made over the Aladdin a few years ago. They completely revamped the rooms and the casino, and they also put in a very nice shopping mall in the place. The rooms are large and comfortable, they have nice amenities, and the bathrooms are all marble. The old Aladdin was tired and rough. The new one is one of the nicest places in Vegas.
Mandalay Bay - But the Alladin still isn't as nice as Mandalay Bay. Situated on the far south end of the strip, Mandalay Bay has large, beautiful, and well-appointed rooms. It's just a classy place, bottom line.
Mandalay Bay is also famous for the Four Seasons hotel on the top floors of Mandalay Bay, as well as their man-made 'beach' out back. They also have a huge events center that seats about 12,000 people and they also have the Las Vegas branch of "House of Blues" located there, too.
I would love to stay at Mandalay Bay sometime, but bring money.
Paris - It's nice, but it's not as nice as some of the other new ones in Las Vegas. But it does have the 1/2 scale replica of the Eiffel Tower out front, so Paris has that going for it.
I had a meeting in one of the suites at Paris about two years ago. I was kind of struck by the small nature of the room for a suite at the hotel. It sort of seemed cramped and claustrophobic for what I would have thought would have been a nice sized room. It didn't seem to be as small as the suites I've been in at Treasure Island and at New York New York. But with 11 people in the room, it was awfully close.
The shopping area at Paris has a French flavor to it, but it is nothing special. The restaurants all have a French flavor, as well. We ate dinner at Mon Ami Gabi, which was - as French restaurants go - OK. Our French hosts for dinner thought it was OK for Vegas, nothing special. Paris is nice, but has to go a long way to beat out some other fine hotels in the area.
The Venetian - The canals, the shoppes, the Guggenheim Museum, the ornate rooms, the great restaurants. You can't go wrong with The Venetian.
The Venetian opened in 1999 and is one of the largest hotels in Vegas. They just recently finished a new tower - the Venezia Tower - that is all concierge level accommodations.
The restaurants at the Venetian are also world class. I've eaten at the Royal Star (Asian food with an edge), and the very fine Italian restaurant Valentino, which was superb (see my review).
My nephew was married at the Venetian in the fall of 2003. I couldn't swing coming out to the wedding, but I understand it was a beautiful venue for a wedding ceremony. The Venetian is probably one of the top five hotels in Las Vegas and it's something to see.
Bellagio - I can't say enough about the Bellagio. It's as over-the-top classy as Circus Circus is over-the-top kitschy. I had a meeting in the Bellagio about 4 years ago and it was just in a simple room. Well, simple for the Bellagio. The room was spacious, yet cozy. Ornate, but not gaudy.
From it's beautiful botanical garden to the museum of fine art, Steve Wynn gambled on upscale customers coming to Las Vegas and spending money to stay in a 5 star resort. Given the fact that the hotel averages 86 percent occupancy, I think that gamble has paid off.
Oh, and did I mention the fountains out front?
The Bellagio is awe-inspiring. It's a must see.
Two new places that I have yet to be to, but would like to go see sometime are the Palms and the new Wynn Las Vegas resort. The Palms is the upscale hotel for the very rich 25-34 year olds, supplanting the Hard Rock and Rio as THE party places in Las Vegas. And the Wynn Las Vegas is Steve Wynn's signature new property that stands were the old Desert Inn used to be.
Like I say, everyone needs to go to Las Vegas at least once in their life. A lot of the town is beautiful, but a lot of it is a toilet that needs to be flushed. It's difficult to deny that there is poverty in Las Vegas, but going around to some of the hotels, they do a very good job of concealing it.