One of the Italian restaurants I ate at in New York during my trip there was a nice little place in the Hell's Kitchen neighborhood on 9th Ave. (see map) called Cascina Ristorante. Opened in 2001, Cascina features a brick oven for baking pizzas and homemade breads, as well as for cooking meat and fish entrees. And it has one of the most extensive wine lists of any restaurant I've been to.
The owner, Emilio Barletta, is not only a restaurateur who owns, or partially owns, three other restaurants in the Manhattan, he's also an architect who designed the decor of Cascina to resemble that of a rustic Italian kitchen from the vineyards of Italy. The term "cascina" is used to describe a place where people in the wine growing regions of Italy would gather to make food in a warm kitchen. In fact, Cascina has a stake in an Italian winery - Cascina Orsolina vineyard - outside of the picturesque Northern Italian town of Moncalvo.
Actually, my boss, Daniel, and my two colleagues, Todd and Simon, have eaten at Cascina before. Two years ago at the AES Convention in New York, they had reservations at a restaurant not far from Cascina. Upon arrival, they found their reservations had been canceled because they were 15 minutes late. The restaurant told them it would be 45 minutes before they could get them in. Since the restaurant they wanted to eat at had no bar area in which to wait, they went across the street to a bar to hang out for 45 minutes. Coming back to the restaurant 45 minutes later, they found that, once again, their reservations had been canceled because they didn't stay in the "immediate area".
Daniel was mildly pissed and they took off walking down 9th Ave. until Daniel looked into Cascina and said, "Let's eat here." They were able to get them in right away and according to Daniel "the food was good, the wine was excellent and we had a great time." He wanted to go back to the place.
The only problem is that he didn't know the name of the place. Todd had an idea as to where it was, but didn't know quite know how far it was from the convention center. Trying to get a cab at 6 p.m. on a Saturday night in Manhattan is nearly impossible if you're hailing one on the street. So, along with Focal Professional head Jacques-Hubert Constant in tow, we hoofed it over to 9th Ave. and started north looking for the restaurant.
Finally, after walking about 10 blocks, Todd said, "Daniel, this is the place." It had an open front to the building with seating outside. Todd went in and found that we could be seated immediately for dinner.
They took us toward the back and put a couple of their heavy wooden tables together for us. I took the high-backed bench seat next to Todd while Simon grabbed one of the heavy rustic wooden chairs across the table from me. Daniel and Jacques-Hubert sat at the opposite end of the table.
Each of us were handed a menu by the very beautiful hostess (whom Todd found out was part Egyptian and part Hungarian). Soon, we had assorted homemade breads with extra virgin olive oil sitting on our table.
As I said, the wine list at Cascina was one of the most extensive I've ever seen in a restaurant. Wine Spectator magazine awarded Cascina with their 2007 Award of Excellence for their selection of wine.
It didn't take Daniel long to pick out a bottle of wine. He chose an exquisite, and expensive, bottle of wine, the 2000 Ornellaia Tenuta dell'Ornellaia - Bolgheri, a wonderful blended Italian. It was brought to the table by Cascina's director of wines, Gianni Onofri.
The Ornellaia was a full-bodied red that had an explosive taste with a wonderful lingering finish. The wine's blend was 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petite Verdot. It was just outstanding.
Before ordering our main entrees, we ordered a mish-mash of appetizers including a large caprese salad platter with buffalo mozzarella, carpaccio (thinly sliced and very rare beef filet), and calamari. It was all just out of this world.
For our main entrees, I had a hard time deciding what to order. I finally got the veal scalloppine - cooked in a lemon and wine sauce and served with spinach. Simon got one of the specials of the day - slices of monkfish cooked in a white wine sauce and served with garlic, basil, tomatoes and spinach. Todd got the Osso Bucco - a veal shank simmered in a red wine sauce with vegetables and served on risotto. Jacques-Hubert got the lamb shank special they had that evening, and Daniel was the only one who opted for pasta - the Stracci all’Astice - wide noodles served in a white cream sauce with chunks of lobster. I almost went with that or the Osso Bucco before settling on the veal scalloppine.
In the meantime, Daniel ordered another bottle of wine. This time it was the 2001 Tenuta Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino, a wonderful red that wasn't as expensive or as tasty as the Ornellaia, but it was still very good with the meal.
As far as the meal was concerned, my veal scalloppine was OK. Disappointingly OK. It didn't have much pizazz to the taste, the portion was excruciatingly small for the price, and I've had better veal scalloppine at a chain like Maggiano's or Biaggi's. Much better, in fact.
Todd said his Osso Bucco was also OK. He didn't think it had that much flavor, as well. Simon was disappointed in his monkfish. But Daniel seemed to like his pasta dish and Jacques-Hubert was fully satisfied with his lamb shank. For as outstanding as everything was up to the main course, most of our dishes were a complete let down.
I was so bummed, I didn't even get any dessert - although the homemade tiramisu was tempting. But because we'd spent a lot of money on wine and our meal, Gianni Onofri brought out five generous samples of their extensive selection of Grappa (a type of Italian brandy). Cascina boasts the largest collection of Grappa in New York City - 80 selections in all.
Each of us tried a sip of the various Grappa selections and decided to vote on which one we liked the best. There was a lemon flavored Grappa, one that was blueberry, another that was just straight Grappa, a raspberry one, and a honey flavored one. The fruity ones were heavily sugared, but we all seemed to like the honey one the best.
Even though Cascina Ristorante was very nice, the build up to, then the let down at the main course spoiled a wonderful overall experience. There are tons of great Italian restaurants in New York City and I'd try to find another one before going back to Cascina.
(Update - Cascina Ristorante closed for renovations before the end of 2010 and supposedly has not reopened. The web site is still active, but a number of review sites on the Internet say that it is closed. That's probably for the best. The food wasn't all that great. It was highly disappointing.)