I just added a new dealer in Milwaukee - Ultra Fidelis - to the fast growing line-up of Cambridge Audio dealers in my territory. I did training for them one evening recently and afterward, we ended up at a nice little place in Milwaukee's historic Historic Third Ward - Coquette Cafe.
Coquette Cafe is the second restaurant opened by renown Milwaukee chef Sanford (Sandy) D'Amato. D'Amato, a Milwaukee-area native who is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, worked at a number of New York restaurants before moving back to Milwaukee in 1980 to join the staff at John Byron's Restaurant, an upscale restaurant in downtown Milwaukee.
Sandy D'Amato (right)
In 1989, D'Amato and his wife, Angie, opened Sanford in a building that used to house his grandfather's, then his father's grocery store on N. Jackson St. on the north side of downtown Milwaukee (see map). Sanford quickly garnered a reputation for great food, a long list of wines to choose from and superb service. Three years later, Sandy D'Amato was one of 12 chefs chosen to personally cook for Julia Child as part of her 80th birthday celebration.
After 10 years of receiving awards and accolades for their Sanford restaurant, the D'Amato's opened the Coquette Cafe in the old Landmark Building in the historic Third Ward area of Milwaukee (see map). Coquette Cafe is a somewhat informal and unpretentious French-style bistro with top quality food, but a very unassuming menu. In other words, regular folks - like me - would enjoy the place.
We got into the restaurant around 8 p.m. on a Thursday evening and even though we did have reservations (made earlier in the day), we really didn't need them. There were three of us, as one of the guys at Ultra Fidelis had to beg off for the rest of the evening. We sat at a table next to the wall, giving us a great view of the surrounding restaurant.
A lot of the main entrees on the menu are reminiscent of a French auberge- a restaurant usually found in the French countryside that uses only locally grown produce and meat for their foods. While I was told that the menu at Sanford was fluid and ever-changing, the menu at Coquette Cafe didn't change all that much. Some of the main entrees were quite interesting - bacon-wrapped veal meatloaf, mustard glazed ribs with sausage, and caramelized goat onion cheese ravioli, to name a few. Yes, this was going to be an interesting dining experience.
Coquette Cafe has an extensive wine list, so when I offered to get a bottle of wine, the two guests jumped at the chance. I ended up getting a bottle of the Jordan 2003 Cabernet - a safe and always pleasant choice.
Homemade baguette bread was brought to our table. It was hot and fresh, just out of the oven. It was a great little appetizer while we perused the menu.
Speaking of appetizers, one of the guys suggested we get an appetizer consisting of a smoked-salmon carpaccio - thin sliced house-smoked salmon served with a lemon dressing. We ended up getting two of those to share for the three of us. It was simply outstanding.
With all the interesting choices on the menu, I was torn between a number of items. The had a grilled hanger steak that looked good. I was really interested in the grilled pork loin with a wild mushroom stuffing. But the meatloaf kept calling to me. I ended up ordering the veal meatloaf. With it, I took a side of their garlic mashed potatoes.
One of the guys did end up getting the grilled pork loin, while the other one went with the grilled salmon and leeks in a citrus sauce. Each of us got salads - two of us had the Caesar's Salad, while the other just had the house salad with the Dijon vinaigrette dressing.
After we finished our salads, our main entrees showed up. My veal meatloaf was, well, interesting. I can't say that I didn't like it, but it didn't really knock my socks off like I'd hoped. Actually, the grilled pork loin with the wild mushroom dressing looked great - and according to my guest it was great. And my other guest was thoroughly happy with the grilled salmon. The veal meatloaf had a nice texture to it, sort of a large meatball, if you will. I guess I'm just used to the taste of my own meatloaf.
After dinner, we passed on the dessert, but we each ended up getting a glass of single malt scotch that opened up a whole new discussion at the table centered on good Scotch, great wine and good beer. Although I've known the guys at Ultra Fidelis for quite sometime, this was really the first time we got into personal discussions. It was a really fun night.
The bill came to over $300 bucks with a tip. It was a very good dinner at a very good restaurant in Milwaukee. Coquette Cafe is one of those places that serves excellent food, but isn't "snooty" at all. Parking can be a little tough at night around the restaurant, but even if you have to walk a couple blocks, it's definitely worth the experience.
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