When we were on Maui six years ago, we had a great breakfast one morning at Gannon's Restaurant at the clubhouse of the Wailea Golf Club with stunning views down the course and out on the Pacific Ocean. (Click here to read about our visit to Gannon's.) When I was reading up about Gannon's after our visit, I found out that the owner was Bev Gannon, one of the top chefs in all of Hawaii. She also ran two other restaurants, the now-closed Joe's in the Wailea Grand Champions villas (where we happened to stay when we were on Maui this trip), and the acclaimed Hali'imaile General Store in the Upcountry of Maui. I was somewhat upset to realize that we didn't even check out anything in the Upcountry on our initial trip and that we missed a chance to eat at Bev Gannon's signature restaurant. Focusing more on the Upcountry and on the north shore of Maui on this trip, we made a point to have dinner at the Hali'imaile General Store one evening.
Bev Shanbaum grew up in Dallas as part of a Jewish family that embraced the "eat first" theory in life. Her mother made great meals and Bev garnered an appreciation - then a passion - for good food. She thought she would end up to be a cook, but after a stint at the University of Colorado - Boulder she ended up working in the entertainment industry. She was a personal assistant for singer/actress Joey Heatherton, then became the tour manager for Liza Minnelli and Ben Vereen. While it was a fun life, she realized after five years that she really needed to follow her heart and go to culinary school.
After studying at the Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in London (under legendary chefs Jacque Pepin and Marcella Hazan), she returned to Dallas to run her own event and catering company. However, a man she had met during her work as a tour manager ended up having an even stronger pull on her.
Joe Gannon was a noteworthy behind-the-scenes name in the entertainment industry, first as the manager for the Kingston Trio, then as the manager of Frank Zappa's record label. From there, Joe Gannon was road manager for Bill Cosby, then he became a stage and lighting designer for Neil Diamond. Gannon's work with Diamond made him famous, primarily for the moving stage sets that he used during Diamond's Hot Summer Nights tour in the early 70's.
Gannon's work with Diamond caught the eye of Shep Gordon, the manager for shock rocker Alice Cooper. Gordon got Gannon to come to work as the stage and lighting designer for Cooper's rock show extravaganzas that propelled Cooper to international fame in the mid-70's. When he wasn't working with the Alice Cooper tours, Joe Gannon worked with the likes of Julio Iglesias, Teddy Pendergrass, Luther Vandross, and Barry Manilow.
Joe Gannon had met Bev Shanbaum when she was working with Liza Minelli in the early 70's and a chance meeting in Dallas in 1979 brought the two together again. Joe Gannon had been stationed in Hawaii during his stint in the Navy nearly 30 years before and he invited Bev to accompany him to Maui for a visit. They eventually fell in love and a year later they were married on Maui. While they were there, they decided to make the permanent move to the island and continue Bev's catering career there.
The Gannon's settled in Makawao, an upcountry village that was home to many of the island's paniolos - or cowboys - who worked on ranches and plantations in the middle of Maui. She ran her catering business - Fresh Approach, later changed to Celebrations Catering - out of her garage and she became locally famous for her food.
Pictured right - Bev and Joe Gannon
Not far from Makawao was the even smaller village of Hali'imaile, home to a large pineapple plantation and processing plant. Across from the pineapple plant was the Hali'imaile General Store, a multi-purpose business that was all at once a butcher shop, fish market, post office, clothing store, and also sold home furnishings to the plantation workers since the mid-20's. As the pineapple business became more automated in the early 80's, many of the workers who frequented the small general store had moved away and the general store had basically closed down.
In the meantime, local officials were strongly urging the Gannon's to get the catering business out of their garage. Bev and Joe were looking around for a space and they found that the lease for the building that housed the Hali'imaile General Store was available toward the end of 1987. The Gannon's leased the building, re-purposed the space with a big kitchen and staging area, a convenience store and a gourmet take-out deli with a small portion of the floor plan available for patrons to sit down and enjoy their sandwiches.
By now, Bev Gannon's prowess in the kitchen was somewhat famous on the island because of her catering business, and on the opening day of the Hali'imaile General Store there were over 100 people in line to get in the door. They had no wait staff and were thoroughly overwhelmed with the outpouring of support from the Upcountry community. The Gannon's eventually moved the catering company to another building and turned "The Store" into the sit down restaurant that it is today.
Along the way, the Gannon's opened a second restaurant - simply named Joe's - in the Wailea area in 1995. And in 2009, the Gannon's took over the old Seawatch Restaurant in the club house of the Wailea Golf Course in Wailea and renamed it Gannon's, A Pacific View Restaurant (along with the popular Red Bar lounge). All of the restaurants and the catering business are part of the Bev Gannon Restaurants group.
(In 2014, Joe's in Wailea was leased to two young chefs, protégés of Bev Gannon, and turned it into a Latin-influenced restaurant. However, the locals didn't care for the change in cuisine and business suffered. The two chefs skipped out on the restaurant and left the Gannon's with the lease and a number of bills. Bev - who had just turned 65 - had already turned over the day-to-day operations of her catering company to her general manager and she decided to close Joe's rather than reshaping the menu and reopening.)
Up until the 1980's, Hawaiian cuisine was pretty dull. Most of it consisted of kalua pork - a whole pig that is traditionally cooked over hot coals in a pit with the pig covered in banana leaves (and it can be pretty outstanding in taste), poi - made from the taro roots that were brought over to the Hawaiian Islands from Polynesians who called them canoe plants, and the loco moco - probably the first late night drunk food available in Hawaii that consisted of white rice topped with hamburger patties, fried eggs and brown gravy. But Bev Gannon was at the forefront of a new culinary movement on the Hawaiian Islands that emphasized the use of locally-raised meats, fresh-caught seafood, and locally-grown produce that was available year round.
In the 1980's, Shep Gordon - the same Shep Gordon who managed Alice Cooper, as well as Blondie and Luther Vandross - was living on Maui and reconnected with Joe Gannon. Gordon was a food enthusiast and he began to embrace the new Hawaiian culinary movement. He became an investor with the Gannon's in the Hali'imaile General Store, and in 1991 he brought together 12 chefs who worked in restaurants on the Hawaiian Islands that were busting out of the traditional Hawaiian food mold with their takes on using local foods from the islands. Chefs such as Peter Merriman (click here and here to read about our visits to two of Merriman's restaurants), Sam Choy, Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi (click here to read about my visit to Roy's Hawaiian Fusion in Las Vegas), as well as Bev Gannon convened at the Maui Prince hotel (later known as the Makena Beach & Golf Resort which closed earlier this summer after 30 years in business), not far from Gordon's house in Wailea. There, they shared the names of local produce farmers, ranchers, and fishermen who they began to use on the islands for locally grown food products, and shared "out-of-the-box" ideas for East-meets-West food fusion.
It was there the dozen chefs began to come up with the concept to promote what was eventually called Hawaii Regional Cuisine. The HRC movement raised awareness with tourists and locals that it just wasn't all pork and poi on the menus at Hawaiian restaurants. The group of chefs collaborated with noted food author Janice Wald Henderson to publish The New Cuisine of Hawaii, a cookbook spotlighting the new regional foods they were championing. While many of the chefs were young at that time, nearly all of them went on to have celebrated and award winning careers in the kitchen. Yamaguchi, Wong and George Mavrothalassitis - simply known as Chef Mavro - all became James Beard Foundation award winners, while Bev Gannon and Peter Merriman have been nominated for the foundation's award for their restaurants.
It was about a 25 minute drive from Wailea up to the Hali'imaile General Store. It's located in the Upcountry on the north slope of the Haleakala volcano a couple miles north of Makawao. (see map) The parking lot was full, but we were able to find parking across the street in the parking lot of the old pineapple processing plant that is now home to Hali'imaile Distilling Company and Maui Pineapple Tours.
The inside of the Hali'imaile General Store features a main dining room up front with a high ceiling, an open kitchen toward the back left side of the room, and a small bar up toward the front. Colorful artwork and fish sculptures livened up the already vibrant room.
There is a smaller dining room in the back of the building. More artwork from local artists around the art community of Makawao hung on the walls. The building had a warm and laid-back old-time tropical plantation vibe.
While we did have reservations, we probably didn't need it that evening - it was a Sunday night and the place was half-full when we got there around 7 p.m. We were seated at a table near the front of the restaurant and given menus. Our server for the evening, a nice young lady by the name of Irene, came by to greet us. She asked us if we wanted anything to drink and, of course, we both wanted a mai tai. However at the Hali'imaile General Store they have something they call the "tai mai", it's made with three different types of rum - a shot each of light and dark Old Lahaina Rum made on Maui, and a shot of Sammy's Beach Bar Rum from rocker Sammy Hagar that is also distilled on Maui. It's flash blended with fresh lime juice, a house-made sweet and sour mix, lilikoi syrup and a citrus zest. It was marvelous.
We decided to get an appetizer from the list of starters they had at the General Store. They had a number of things that we were interested in - the Cajun-dusted calamari caught our eye, as did the kalua pork and goat cheese wontons with a mango salsa. We also contemplated Bev Gannon's signature crab pizza with a top secret crab spread over flat bread. They also had raw bar offerings, but we ended up getting the blackened-seared ahi tuna that was drizzled with a sweet and spicy chili sauce. The taste combinations of the fresh tuna, the blackening seasonings, along with the sweet and spicy sauce were outstanding. I could have had two more plates of that appetizer alone and I would have been happy with my meal.
We had ordered our entrees and Cindy wanted to split the HGS House Salad - fresh local greens, orange slices, toasted walnuts, with shaved local onions and topped with a balsamic vinaigrette. For a $2.50 upcharge, we could have gotten a buttermilk dressing with chunks of blue cheese mixed in. The salad was great. There's something about vegetables grown in the lava soil on the Hawaiian Islands that just have an outstanding taste - especially tomatoes.
Many of the entree plates at the Hali'imaile General Store feature fresh seafood including a horseradish-encrusted fresh catch of the day. I believe that day it was ono for the fish, but I'm not certain about it. However, the other half of the dinner menu featured roasted duck, baby back ribs, a braised pork shank, tri-tip, a ribeye steak and roasted chicken. I wasn't certain what to get - I wasn't really thinking about seafood, but more along the lines of something from one of the Upcountry ranches.
I ended up getting the grilled rack of lamb - two double-cut lamb chops with a housemade black bean Hunan sauce drizzled over the top. The lamb chops rested on a bed of wasabi mashed potatoes and a side of grilled locally grown green beans came with them.
Now, I normally don't order lamb - I've found that lamb that I've had in the past is usually greasy and it doesn't taste very good. My wife maintains that if the chef knows how to cook the lamb, it should be good. So when Irene asked me how I wanted my lamb cooked, I looked at my wife, completely dumbfounded. I tried to search for words because I've never had anyone ask me how I like my lamb prepared. Finally, my wife bailed me out and said, "Have the chef prepare it the way he would eat it." Sometimes my wife is such a genius. I would have never thought of that.
And the lamb was absolutely great. It was cooked what I would call a medium-rare plus - not really deep pink, but not fully cooked through like a pork chop. The lamb was juicy, tender and savory. The black bean Hunan sauce was an excellent combination with the lamb chop. The mashed potatoes had a bit of a spicy wasabi taste, but it wasn't a lot. I would have enjoyed more of the wasabi in the potatoes, but they were fine. The green beans were also fresh with a nice snap with each cut and bite. But the lamb chops - boy howdy! And the malbec blend wine that I had with the meal was a perfect compliment to the lamb.
Cindy ordered the macadamia nut-encrusted mahi mahi. It came with a side of mashed purple sweet potatoes - don't think I've ever seen purple sweet potatoes - and flash-fried purple sweet potato straws. It was all topped with a mango-lilikoi butter sauce. I've learned on my visits to Hawaii that anything that has lilikoi on it - or in it - instantly makes the taste better. She also got a glass of a pinot grigio to go with her seafood entree.
The meal was filling, but there were a couple things on the dessert menu that we really wanted to try. There was a lilikoi brûlée that came in a deep fried sugar shell that Cindy was interested in. It came with a mix of blueberries, blackberries and strawberries on the side.
The other thing that caught our eye on the dessert menu was a lemon bundt cake with a lemon frosting, whipped cream and it was sitting on a bed of blueberry compote - but not like blueberry pie compote. This was fresh blueberry compote juice. Now, anything that has a combination of lemon and blueberries - I'm hooked. But I honestly couldn't say which dessert I liked more - they both were sweet and sour in taste and were both delicious.
When we decided to go back to Maui, I immediately knew that one night would be set aside for a meal at the Hali'imaile General Store. The more I had learned about Bev Gannon and her background, the more I wanted to get to her flagship restaurant in Maui's Upcountry. Everything about the meal was top notch - from the seared ahi tuna appetizer, to the fresh greens and vegetables for the salad, to both the lamb chop entree that I had and the macadamia-nut mahi mahi my wife had, to the delicious desserts - and I can't forget the great tasting tai mai's they have at the Hali'lmaile General Store - this was one of the most memorable meals I've ever had in my life.