I've had a place in Indianapolis on my radar for quite sometime and I finally got a chance to visit this place on a trip to Indy earlier this year. Twenty Tap is one of the many brewpubs that have popped up all over the Midwest over the past five or six years. But the background of the guy who owns Twenty Tap is what intrigued me the most about the place.
Back in 1990, the Broad Ripple Brewpub was the first place in Indiana - and one of the first places in the nation - to brew their own beer and serve it on-site. Not long after they opened, a young guy by the name of Kevin Matalucci showed up to ask for a job. For the first year, he did a little bit of everything, but he really wanted to learn how to brew beer. Broad Ripple founder John Hill took the young Matalucci under his wing and showed him the process of brewing beer.
Hill was a mentor to a number of young men who worked for him at Broad Ripple. His first brewer when he opened 27 years ago, Gil Alberding, eventually went to MillerCoors as a brewing specialist. His second brewer, Greg Emig, went on to open Lafayette Brewing Company. (Click here to see the Road Tips entry on Lafayette Brewing Company.) Following Emig, Ted Miller was the brewer at Broad Ripple and he went on to open Brugge Brasserie, a Belgian-style brewpub in Broad Ripple. (Click here to see the Road Tips entry on Brugge.)
Kevin Matalucci worked his way up the ranks in the brewery assisting Hill and the other brewers in the making of Broad Ripple's beers. When Miller left to open Brugge, Hill installed Matalucci as the head brewer. During Matalucci's tenure as the brewmaster at Broad Ripple, one of his helpers was John Treeter who eventually ended up as the head brewer at the Oaken Barrel brewery on Indianapolis' far south side, another incubator of brewmasters who went on to do their own thing. (Click here to see the Road Tips entry on Oaken Barrel.)
Pictured right - Kevin Matalucci. Photo courtesy Indianapolis Metromix.
Matalucci worked at Broad Ripple Brewpub for 18 years - 17 of those years as an assistant or head brewer. But seeing others who worked at Broad Ripple go on to do their own thing always stuck in the back of his mind. Along with his wife, Tracy, they started to plan out their own brewpub where Kevin could continue his love of brewing beers. At first, he wanted to have a place that did nothing but cask drawn beers, but he found that it was wasn't efficient to have multiple firkin taps.
He eventually found a space at the corner of N. College Ave. and E. 54th St. that was once home to a place called Northside News. Matalucci changed his concept of his place to focus on serving the locally and regionally brewed beers of friends that he knew in the industry. He eventually wanted to have his own nano-brewing operation, but getting started with 20 beers on tap to pair with a menu that featured interesting locally-sourced foods was the goal to get open. After leaving Broad Ripple Brewery - and with the full support of Broad Ripple's John Hill - Matalucci and his wife opened Twenty Tap in the late summer of 2011. (Matalucci has since opened his basement nano-brewery Twenty Below Brewing.)
I had finished a meeting with one of my dealers in Indy and was wanting to get some lunch before I left town. I stopped into Twenty Below around 1 p.m. after finding parking just down College Ave. (see map) There are two sides to Twenty Tap - the dining room is on the right as you walk in. It featured a number of high-backed wooden booths with framed beer posters on the wall. I read somewhere that Kevin Matalucci and friends did most - if not all - the renovation in the place before it opened.
I ended up going to the bar area and took a seat at the bar. Bobby, the bartender that day, greeted me and gave me a beer menu and a food menu. I ended up getting an Oaken Barrel Superfly IPA - a beer I'd had before during my visit to the Oaken Barrel brewpub. Bobby also appeared to be a brewer as he was chatting up a couple guys down the bar from me about brewing techniques and recipes. And this was definitely a beer bar as there was just one television set on the wall near the bar.
The food menu at Twenty Tap features a small list of appetizers that can be eaten individually or shared over craft beers. They have a pretty good list of artisan burgers and a number of interesting sandwiches. But they had something on the appetizer part of the menu that really piqued my interest. It was a pimento mac & cheese appetizer that came in two sizes. I ended up getting the smaller size, but for $1.50 more I could have gotten real bacon bits added. I decided against the bacon and while the bacon probably would have given the pimento mac & cheese another dimension in taste, I couldn't complain about the taste of the appetizer. It was creamy, rich in taste, and a perfect start to the meal.
For my lunch that day, I thought about getting a burger - the "Wrath" burger featured toppings that included sautéed mushrooms, bacon, caramelized onions and a blue cheese sauce that I thought sounded pretty good. But I was getting sort of burned out on burgers on the road. The New Orleans-style muffuletta sounded pretty good, as did the pulled beef brisket sandwich topped with cheddar cheese and a jalapeño marmalade. But I ended up going with the braised short rib grilled cheese sandwich.
They slow roast the beef - locally raised by Fischer Farms in Jasper, IN (my sister and her family lived in Jasper for over 20 years so I know where Jasper is) - shred it by hand and put it on Texas toast and add a cherry bourbon glaze on the meat. They cover the beef in a combination of creamy havarti and a smooth smoked gouda cheese, then finish it off with caramelized onions, romaine lettuce and the jalapeño marmalade. I got a side of the cole slaw to go along with it.
This was simply an outstanding tasting sandwich. The Texas toast was lightly grilled and the coagulation of the harvarti and smoked gouda cheese gave the sandwich a rich taste. The braised short rib beef was tender and very flavorful. The jalapeño marmalade gave it just a bit of a spicy bite. There were so many taste sensations going on with the sandwich that I seemed to taste something different with each bite. I was more than happy that I got the braised beef grilled cheese sandwich.
I thoroughly enjoyed my lunch at Twenty Tap. The braised beef grilled cheese sandwich was outstanding, as was the pimento mac & cheese appetizer that I couldn't pass up. The beer selection was very good and features not only some of Twenty Below's nano-brewery beers, but local and regional beers that are brewed by friends of owner Kevin Matalucci. The atmosphere was laid back and casual. This was a place that I thought I could go to on a regular basis if I lived in Indianapolis. Good beer and good food in a great atmosphere is a winning combination for Twenty Tap.
(Update - Not long after I was in Twenty Tap, a devastating fire ravaged the building effectively closing it down. They were shut down for a few months for clean-up, rebuilding and renovations, and reopened in August of 2017.)