Up in LaCrosse earlier this summer, I was in the mood from some Italian food. I did a quick search on my GPS for Italian restaurants in the area and I found a place called Angelini's in nearby Onalaska. When I pulled up to the place where my GPS said it would be, well, it wasn't there. I did a quick search to see if Angelini's was still in business and it turned out that they were, but they had moved up Highway 35. After negotiating a somewhat tricky roundabout to get into their parking lot, I found my myself at Angelini's. (see map)
Antonio (Tony) Angelini immigrated from Italy to the U.S. with his family when he was 11 years old. Tony worked in a number of restaurants as he became familiar with America and he saw what was good and what was bad in the workings of a restaurant. He knew he couldn't make suggestions to his employers - who would listen to a teenaged immigrant from Italy? But he kept mental notes of what to do and what not to do if he were able to open his own restaurant at some point.
Tony Angelini eventually worked his way up the ladder and was a manager for three different restaurants over the years as a young man. But he eventually went to work for the streets department for the City of Chicago, meeting a young woman by the name of Kelly Arnold during his years working there. Kelly and Tony eventually married and started a family. Wanting to provide a better living for his small but growing family, the urge for Tony to run his own restaurant was too great and Kelly encouraged him to find a restaurant where he could serve authentic Italian food made from his mother's recipes.
The couple found a restaurant in Sparta, WI that was for sale and they took the plunge and moved from suburban Schiller Park, IL to western Wisconsin in 2003 to open Angelini's. Their Italian food - and especially their pizza (Chicago deep-dish, thin crust or stuffed) - was a big hit in the small town of about 9500 people.
Approached by city officials to possibly open a second restaurant in Onalaska, the Angelini's were shown a building in the city's downtown - the one I pulled up to courtesy of my GPS. The Angelini family opened their second restaurant there in September of 2013. Tony and Kelly soon found, however, that running two places 25 miles apart from one another was turning out to be too much for them, so they sold their Sparta location a few months after opening the Onalaska location.
One of the problems with their downtown Onalaska location was the lack of parking in the immediate area around the restaurant. But when Primos Southwestern Grill closed their doors in the Spring of 2015, the Angelini's saw an opportunity to expand the size of their restaurant while also gaining a large parking lot for their patrons to use. Angelini's moved into its new location in June of 2015.
As I said earlier, getting into Angelini's was a little difficult - I had to take a roundabout where Highway 35, Riders Club Road and Sunset Vista Road all come together. A small sign off Sunset Vista pointed the way to Angelini's parking lot. It was about a 1/3 full of cars when I pulled up.
When I went into Angelini's, I had a faint recollection that I had been in the place before. All during dinner I was wracking my brain to remember if I'd been in there before, so much looked familiar to me. Afterward, I went into the bar and I asked the bartender how long they'd been there. "Just under two years," she replied. I asked what it was before this and she said, "Well, it was a Primo's Southwestern Grill for a few years before they went out of business." I said that, no, I hadn't been in here if it was that place. Then she said, "Well, before that it was the Lakefront Supper Club." That's was it! I had been in the Lakefront Supper Club with my wife a number of years ago during a weekend trip up to LaCrosse. There had been some extensive remodeling of the place since we were in, but once I got to looking around at the place I realized that I really had been in the place in the past.
The main dining room was where I was shown to a table when I got in there. Angelini's also has some smaller rooms that will sit 6 or 8 people for dinner. But the main dining room was nice - but it was very dark. The sun had just gone down and the scenery out onto Lake Onalaska, a back water area of the Mississippi River, was hardly discernible.
The only lights in the room that really illuminated anything were strings of LED lights strung up with some faux greenery along the ceiling edges and corners. Recessed lighting from the ceiling was dimmed excessively, so much that I had to read the menu with the flashlight on my smartphone.
My server for the evening was a young lady by the name of Hallie. I ordered up a beer to enjoy while I looked through the menu. The food at Angelini's is traditional Italian from pasta and meat dishes, to sausage and peppers with pasta, to a clam linguine dish, to three different styles of pizza - a thin crust, a Chicago-style deep dish, and a Chicago-style stuffed pizza. Because the pizzas can take so much time, Angelini's only offers pizza Monday through Thursday evening as I was told the kitchen used to get horribly backed up on weekends with all the pizza orders.
I considered getting a thin crust pizza, but a few other things caught my eye on them menu. The meat cannelloni featured three meat-filled pasta shells topped with their signature bolognese meat sauce. The meat-ravioli was also calling my name, as was the cheese-stuffed tortellini in a creamy Alfredo sauce with ham chunks and peas. But in the end, I ordered up the chicken parmigiana with the mostaccioli pasta topped with the bolognese meat sauce. I also got a glass of the house cabernet to go along with the meal.
This was a lot of food covering my plate. The chicken parm was in the center of the plate with a healthy dose of mozzarella cheese on top, and it was surrounded by mostaccioli and the meat sauce. A slice of garlic bread made from daily house-baked bread was on the side.
The chicken parm was, well, it was all right. It was a little overcooked and sort of dry - not what I was anticipating when I ordered up the dish. However, the house bolognese meat sauce was, well, off-the-hook excellent. Quite honestly, I quit focusing on the chicken parm and went exclusively for the mostaccioli and the thick and tasty bolognese sauce. The taste sensations of the herbed tomato sauce with the chunky combinations of what I believed to be beef and Italian sausage mixed together was heavenly. I couldn't get enough of the thick meat sauce with the pasta. I was embarrassing myself as I kept eating until all of the pasta was gone, then I took the garlic bread and started to sop up the meat sauce trying to clean the plate of every last speck of the sauce. I had eaten - maybe - half of the chicken parmigiana.
The chicken parmigiana at Angelini's was a little disappointing, but the slow-cooked housemade meat sauce that came on the side with some mostaccioli was absolutely out of this world. Here I was in little Onalaksa, WI at an Italian restaurant overlooking the Mississippi River to experience some of the best bolognese sauce I've ever had. The service I received that evening was prompt and friendly, and Hallie did her best to check with me from time to time to see if I needed anything during my dinner. The dining room was nice, but the lighting in the place was too dim - too dim to even be able to read the menu. Once again, I cursed the gods of Italian restaurants everywhere as I wished a place like Angelini's would be available in my hometown instead of a 3.5 hour drive away.