During my trip to North Dakota this summer, I always like to go out to dinner with one of my dealers in Fargo along with his wife. Over the 12-plus years I have been traveling to Fargo, they have turned me on to a number of very good restaurants - surprisingly good restaurants - that one wouldn't think would be in the northern plains. They were trying to figure out where we should go for dinner that evening and I said, "One place that I've been wanting to try is Mezzaluna. Let's go there." They both looked at one another in astonished agreement and we walked from their house to Mezzaluna for dinner that evening.
Eric Watson grew up in Colorado where he was an avid outdoorsman as a young boy into his teens. Hunting small game and trout fishing turned into a passion for preparing foods out of what he hunted or caught. He had an early understanding of how the fresh game foods be prepared. And as the older son of a working single mother, he made many of the meals in the house
Watson's first job in the restaurant business was as a dishwasher and busboy at a restaurant in his hometown of Glenwood Springs, CO. He took close notice of the techniques the restaurant's Swiss-born chef showed from food preparation to presentation of dishes.
After getting out of high school, Watson went directly to culinary school. He traveled the country as an apprentice chef, but it was during a three-year apprenticeship at the Keystone Resort in Colorado that he met his future wife, Sara, who grew up not far from Fargo.
The two worked together for a number of years before ending up in Fargo to run the former Cafe Muse at the Plains Art Museum in Fargo before becoming managing partners of Maxwell's in West Fargo. (Click here to the see the Road Tips entry on Maxwell's.) However, when the Silver Moon Supper Club closed down in 2011, the Watson's saw an opportunity to take over the space for their own restaurant concept. They sold their interest in Maxwell's and opened Mezzaluna in March of 2012 with a focus on fresh, locally-raised ingredients.
Mezzaluna has been recognized by a number of magazines and on-line publications as being not only the top restaurant in North Dakota, but one of the top restaurants in the nation. Time Magazine recently named Mezzaluna one of the top 51 restaurants in America and the best in North Dakota. Over the past couple of years, OpenTable named the restaurant as one of the top 100 places to eat in the country, and Mezzaluna has also been recognized as one of the top restaurants in American by MSN and The Daily Meal websites.
It was a 10 minute walk from my dealer's home to Mezzaluna on a beautiful summer evening. It's located on N. Roberts Street, a block west of Fargo's famous Broadway Downtown District. (see map) The inside decor hasn't changed much from the days of the old Silver Moon Supper Club (click here if you would like to read about the drunken evening my dealer and I had there about seven years ago). They still have the high back clam shell booths that I completely detest sitting in at restaurants (it's like you're on display for the rest of the diners). In fact, that's where they tried to seat us when we asked for a table for three. I immediately protested and they said it may be a moment to find a place to seat us. I didn't think it would be that long of a wait as the place was - maybe - a quarter full that evening.
While the staff tried to figure out where to put us, we went to the bar to order some pre-dinner drinks. It's a small area with a horseshoe-shaped bar. There's a small lounge area up a short set of stairs at Mezzaluna, the same lounge that I've drank in a couple times previously when it was the Silver Moon.
It didn't take long for us to get seated at a table in the dining room. The host that evening gave us some menus to look over and we enjoyed our drinks while we thumbed through the selections that night. We decided to start out the evening with some appetizers. I signed up for the seared Szechuan tuna appetizer that came on a bed with crisp wonton noodles and a cabbage slaw with a side of tamari (basically a heavier Japanese version of soy sauce). The tuna was fresh and flavorful and I was happy to share some with my guests.
My dealer and his wife ordered up the pan-seared scallops that came on a bed of carrot puree and topped with a brown butter sauce and fingerling potato chips. As good as the seared tuna was, I had one of the pan-seared scallops and thought it was even better. So much so, we had another order brought to our table for us to share.
Everything on Mezzaluna's menu that evening sounded tempting to me. From the beef tenderloin filet, to the prosciutto-wrapped pork tenderloin, to the pan-roasted chicken breast in a lemon caper sauce there was just so much to choose from. I was still in a deep quandary as to what to get when our server came around to take our main entree order.
My dealer went with the rack of lamb. It featured lamb chops on a bed of saffron risotto and served with a garlic confit. The chops were big, meaty and cooked to a medium-rare.
Lamb, to me, is hit or miss, but the lamb my dealer was served was lean, juicy and tender. He said the lamb chops were "outstanding". It was one of the items that I was heavily eyeing on the menu before I made my final choice.
My dealer's wife got another thing that I was looking at hard - the crab-stuffed walleye. It was served on a bed of creamy brown wild rice, then topped with leeks and a citrus vinaigrette. She thought it was just fabulous. I was getting sort of envious of what my guests had gotten the way they were raving about the taste.
I ended up going with the bacon-wrapped bison meatloaf. It was served on a bed of parmesan mashed potatoes and topped with a smoked corn salsa. And it, too, was very, very good. The meatloaf wasn't dried out, the bacon wrapping gave it a wonderful flavor, and the roasted corn salsa and parmesan mashed potatoes were all a perfect complement. I shouldn't have been jealous of what my guests got because I was more than happy with the bison meatloaf.
Mezzaluna has been on my restaurant radar for a couple three years, and now that I've actually had the chance to try the place I have nothing but high praise for the place. Our food was very good to excellent, the service was prompt, efficient and professional, and the atmosphere was chic and elegant, but it wasn't pretentious in the least. I've eaten in some very fine restaurants in Fargo over the years, but it would be very hard to top the meal I had at Mezzaluna.