My wife and I were in St. Louis earlier this year and we wanted to go try a restaurant that a friend had recommended for lunch. The only problem was that it was Saturday afternoon and the line to get into the restaurant was well out the door. Going to plan B, I started to head over to Soulard to go get some barbecue at the wonderful Bogart's. However, as we passed over Interstate 55 on Lafayette Ave. coming into Soulard, I immediately noticed something on my right - Mission Taco Joint. Now, I've been wanting to go to Mission Taco in the Delmar Loop area of St. Louis for awhile now, so I was pleasantly surprised to see one in Soulard. I quickly talked my wife into going there instead of Bogart's. (see map)
The hell of all this is - Mission Taco has been in Soulard since November of 2013. (My wife says that I'm not very observant as I have probably been in Soulard more than a dozen of times on my trips to St. Louis over the past four years.) It was the second Mission Taco Joint outpost for brothers Adam and Jason Tilford who've had the restaurant bug in their blood since they grew up in nearby Webster Groves.
Both brothers started in the restaurant business at an early age - Adam's first job was as a pie cutter at Imo's, while Jason worked in the kitchen at the popular Two Nice Guys pizzeria that closed down due to the slowdown in the economy in 2009. The brothers eventually went to work for the Levy Restaurant Group that handled the food service at the TWA Dome (now called the Dome at America's Center), then at the newly opened Kiel Center (now called the Scottrade Center). They learned from the Levy corporate chefs on how to cater food for small to large events.
Pictured right - Adam and Jason Tilford. Photo courtesy Riverfront Times.
The brothers worked at a handful of restaurants around the St. Louis area for the next few years. An opportunity to take over the lease of a closed restaurant in Clayton came about and the brothers jumped at the chance to open their own place. They remade the restaurant into a "chef-inspired gastropub" and they opened Barrister's in 2004. The same year, the brothers opened a small taco shop in the Central West End by the name of Tortillaria. (It closed in 2016.) The brothers also had a third restaurant they opened under their Tilford Restaurant Group umbrella, a modern Mexican restaurant by the name of Milagro in Webster Groves. And nearly three years ago, the brothers opened a full-service catering company on The Hill in St. Louis - Cater al Fresco - that features different styles of culinary fare for large and small groups.
In 2012, the brothers began working on a concept of a bar/taco joint - more of an upscale taqueria, if you will. They wanted to have a wide selection of libations while serving tacos made with premium ingredients. They opened their first Mission Taco Joint in February of 2013 with the second one opening in Soulard later in the year. Today, the brothers have five total Mission Taco's - four in the great St. Louis area and one in the Crossroads art, shopping and entertainment district in Kansas City.
We circled around Soulard and found a parking spot just down the street from Mission Taco Joint. We walked up to Mission Taco and saw a bunch of people on a covered patio off to the side of the old building that housed the restaurant. Going inside, we found a lively, well-lit place with natural light coming in the windows and open doors. It was around 1:30 on a Saturday afternoon and the place was nearly full.
There was some interesting art work on the walls. The far end of the restaurant featured a mural of a seaside scene complete with a mermaid holding a surfboard. Large paintings of Mexican lucha libre wrestlers wearing masks adorned the spaces along the long wall of the dining area. Mission Taco sort of had a Mexican beach-vibe to the place, even though it was smack-dab in the middle of the United States.
We were seated by the bar which was packed with Saturday afternoon imbibers. Our server, Amy, came over to drop off food and drink menus for us. I noticed that they had mai tais on the drink menu and I ordered one of those. My wife got a house margarita that they make with white tequila, orange curaçao, agave nectar and fresh lime juice.
The mai tai was very good - almost as good as the ones we would get out in Hawaii. But my wife really liked her margarita. I made quick work of my mai tai and I ordered up one of the house margaritas from Amy.
True to Mission Taco Joint's name, they had a wife variety of street tacos to choose from. But they also had burritos, empanadas, tortas, and chicken flautas on the menu, as well. The meats used in their foods at Mission Taco are all cooked on an Aztec gas-ignited, wood-fired stove - one that many authentic Mexican restaurants will use. The Tilford brothers were inspired by Chicago chef Rick Bayless who said the Aztec is the only stove to use when preparing Mexican food. The Tilford's say the wood-fired grill gives meats and vegetables a nice smoky flavor while evenly cooking the food.
The tacos range in price from $3.25 to $4.00 and are served on corn tacos - with the exception of a chicken habanero taco that is served on a flour taco. They have a couple of vegan tacos on the menu - a wood-fired grilled portobello taco and the "Cho-Fu" taco that is made with soy chorizo, avocados, toasted pipitas (pumpkin seeds), pickled jalapeños and onions. But they also had tacos made with beef brisket, shrimp, fish, carne asada and even barbecued duck.
For our tacos, we went four different ways. I ordered the brisket and pork belly taco, along with the grilled fish tacos. My wife got the barbecued duck taco and the carne asada taco. The brisket and pork belly taco was topped with an avocado slice and a spicy arbol chile sauce. The taco was good, but it was very greasy. While the arbol chile sauce was spicy, it didn't overpower the overall taste of the meat.
The fish taco was topped chopped cabbage, fresh Mexican cheese, pico de gallo, and a smoky chipotle sauce. I felt the taste of the taco was rather fishy, as in the fish wasn't all that fresh. I was somewhat disappointed in the fish taco.
My wife's barbecued duck taco was a hit with her, however. The duck was roasted in an ancho pepper-agave glaze, then it was topped with the same pork belly I had on my braised beef taco, along with avocado, pickled onions, and crispy strips of jalapeños. Her duck taco didn't seem to be as greasy as my brisket taco and she thoroughly enjoyed it.
The carne asada taco was made with grilled flank steak and topped with arugula, fresh Mexican cheese, and an avocado/serrano sauce. My wife raved about this taco. So much so, that I had to flag Amy down to have her get me one of the carne asada tacos to try. And my wife was right - the steak was tender with a nice sear to the outer side. But the avocado/serrano sauce was the key to the taco. The mix of the avocado helped cut down the spiciness of the the serrano chile pepper in the sauce.
While I felt the fish taco at Mission Taco Joint wasn't all that good, I have to say that the carne asada taco more than made up for it. I liked the brisket and pork belly taco, too, although it was rather greasy. My wife especially liked her barbecued duck taco, but she really liked the carne asada taco, as well. The mai tai was good, but the house margarita was even better. The service was very good and the atmosphere at Mission Taco in Soulard was festive and fun. It was a good first visit to Mission Taco and I'm sure that I'll be back to either this one or any of the other Mission Taco's in St. Louis (and now in Kansas City) at some point.