Our neighbors had made the trek to Fort Collins a couple three times over the past recent years and always talked about how great some of the brewpubs were out there. We stopped at a number of them during our stay in Fort Collins, but they were sort of spread out and not at all like Asheville, NC where most of the microbreweries and brewpubs are located in the downtown area and within walking distance of one another. We spent some time in downtown Fort Collins - known to the locals as Old Town - and one evening we decided to head to CooperSmith's, the oldest microbrewery/brewpub in Fort Collins.
In the mid-to-late 1980's, Scott Smith was the manager of the Old Chicago restaurant in Fort Collins when they introduced their famous World Beer Tour that encouraged customers to try one each of the over 100 beers they had available at the restaurant. He noticed that many of the same people were coming in on a regular basis trying different beers and making notes on how they tasted.
Since Prohibition ended, the state of Colorado had a law on the books that prohibited establishments from serving beer that had been brewed on premises. Backed by the lobbying efforts of a group headed by entrepreneur John Hickenlooper, the law was repealed in 1988. Hickenlooper and some partners soon opened the first brewpub in the state of Colorado - Wynkoop Brewing Co. - later on that year. A second brewpub - Carver Brewing Co. - opened in Durango in early 1989.
Later in 1989, Scott Smith attended a restaurant auction to see if there was anything he could use for his Old Chicago restaurant. He met a men who introduced himself as the chef at the Wynkoop Brewing Co. Smith didn't know that the law had been changed allowing for retail sale of on-site brewed beers in restaurants. He immediately thought about opening a brewpub in Fort Collins. But he had two problems - he didn't know the first thing about brewing beer, and he didn't have access to capital needed to start his business.
Smith met with Hickenlooper - who later became the Mayor of Denver and who is now the Governor of Colorado - and his backers to pick their brain as to start his own brewing operation. The first meeting with the group told Smith something - they didn't know a thing about running a restaurant. So, in exchange for helping him meet with potential investors, Smith provided Hickenlooper's group with tips on running a restaurant.
Hickenlooper's Wynkoop group put in some money into Smith's venture, Smith was able to raise some money on his own, and he sold 1 percent shares to 30 individuals. With the money raised, he had to find a place to put his brewpub. And he wanted it to be in Fort Collins' downtown Old Town area.
In downtown Fort Collins, a concept pedestrian mall/shopping district housed in restored 19th century buildings called Old Town Square had just gone into foreclosure and was being operated by a Chicago-based insurance company. The insurance company had hired a California-based marketing to do a study as what to do to make the property work. The marketing firm came back with a report that said they really needed an anchor in the largest space - a restaurant or one of these new brewpubs that seem to be suddenly popular.
One thing led to another and Scott got together with the insurance company where he was offered an incredible deal to open his brewpub in the large space at 5 Old Town Square. (see map) Along with brewmaster Brad Page and assistant brewer Dwight Hall, Smith opened CooperSmith's - named after his only son - in November of 1990. It was the third microbrewery in Colorado and the first in Fort Collins - by only two days. Doug Odell served his first beers at Odell Brewing Company just two days after CooperSmith's opened their doors.
In 1993, Smith opened CooperSmith's Poolside just across the cobblestone walkway from the brewpub. It featured pool tables, pub games such as a shuffleboard table and darts, and it had more of a bar atmosphere with a menu of pizza, burgers, sandwiches and appetizers. By the mid-90's, CooperSmith's was firing on all cylinders allowing Smith to pay off some of the early investors making himself the prime investor in the business. Page eventually left the brewery to help open a brewpub in Argentina (he now owns a cider making operation in Colorado), and Dwight Hall became the brewmaster for CooperSmith's with Edward Powers as his assistant brewer.
After running the business for nearly 20 years, Smith and his wife, Jane Liska, had purchased a second home on a lake in northern Wisconsin. With employees running the business in a successful manner, he spent less and less time in the brewpub. By 2014, Smith had sold his shares back to the remaining CooperSmith's investors (there were only a dozen or so of the original 30 "one percent" shareholders left), who, in turn, sold Smith's shares to Dwight Hall and two other longtime workers - Sandra Longton and Chris O'Mara - the brewery's General Manager and Operations Manager, respectively. Hall is the president of CooperSmith's with Edward Powers now the brewmaster, assisted by Mike Hiatt and Justin Bruditt.
I understand that parking used to be an issue in downtown Fort Collins when CooperSmith's opened nearly 30 years ago, but we were able to find parking on the street just down from the brewpub. It was a Monday night and students were still just a few days away from starting classes at Colorado State University. Walking inside, we found a long bar in a narrow dining room. But when we were greeted by the hostess for seating, she took us into a back area with a number of booths opposite an open kitchen area. She dropped off a couple of menus and it wasn't long before our server, Kassi, showed up to take our drink order. I got the Punjabi American Pale Ale for my choice, while my wife - who was somewhat beered-out from an afternoon of trying some of Fort Collins finer microbrews - got a tart lemon martini from the full bar they have at CooperSmith's. I liked the Punjabi pale ale - it had a robust hoppy flavor with a nice malty finish.
CooperSmith's menu consisted of a number of interesting appetizers - I considered getting the applewood-smoked salmon and brie quesadilla just for my dinner that evening. They also had a number of burgers and sandwiches, as well as main entrees including fish and chips, a grilled salmon filet served on cheese grits and succotash and topped with a creamy poblano sauce, and the Highland Cottage Pie - CooperSmith's take on a Shepherd's Pie made with Colorado-raised lamb.
My wife ended up getting the Schweineschnitzel - basically a pork tenderloin that was pounded out, breaded and deep-fried. It was served on top of a bed of mashed potatoes and a housemade bacon-beer sauerkraut, and topped with a lemon-butter cream sauce. The schnitzel was so large that it hide most of the potatoes and sauerkraut. The breading was light and fluffy, and my wife thoroughly enjoyed the taste of the pork tenderloin - especially with the lemon-butter sauce.
I really didn't know what to get. I didn't want anything heavy, so I got the reuben. It was your basic type of reuben - sliced tender corned beef with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, and a Thousand Island dressing served on a swirled-marble rye. Instead of fries for a side, I asked Kassi if I could get a salad with the balsamic vinaigrette dressing. The reuben was fine - the bread was cut thick and the corned beef was piled high on the sandwich. It was a pretty good sandwich.
We thought our meals were good at CooperSmith's - not outstanding, but worthy enough compared to other brewpubs we've visited over time. My wife really enjoyed her pork schnitzel, while I thought the reuben was fine. I did like the Punjabi pale ale that I ordered - twice. The service provided was friendly and efficient, and the atmosphere in the restored old building was casual and relaxed. It was easy to see why Fort Collins' oldest brewpub may be its most popular.