I've been staying near the Clayton/Tamm area in central St. Louis for a number of years, but it's only quite recently that I've made an effort to find interesting places to eat in the neighborhood. Also known the locals as Dogtown, the neighborhood has long been known as the original Irish enclave in St. Louis. So, it's only fitting that one of the oldest and more popular Irish pubs in the city is located in the neighborhood - Seamus McDaniel's. On a trip to St. Louis last fall for a dealer event I was working, I went to Seamus McDaniel's for lunch.
The building that houses Seamus McDaniel's - which sits just south of the corner of Clayton and Tamm (see map) - dates back to the 1920's. After Prohibition ended, the spot became a bar and was in business for about 12 years before local politician Jack O'Shea bought the place toward the end of World War II. O'Shea - a former state legislator in Missouri and a local Democratic Party operative - named the place O'Shea's Shamrock Pub and it became a popular watering hole in the neighborhood and a gathering spot for politicians. It also became a rather notorious place in the 1950's as O'Shea kept a private poker room in one of the upstairs rooms. One afternoon, an illegal high-stakes poker game with a number of men playing in the room was busted by St. Louis police officers. O'Shea, who was downstairs in his bar at the time, along with five men who were unable to flee the room when the cops broke in were arrested.
O'Shea retired soon after that episode and sold the place to Eddie Brady. Trying to clean up the image of the place, Brady made the place a more traditional Irish pub and was instrumental in some of the first planned St. Patrick's Day celebrations in the neighborhood. In 1966, Brady sold the place to novice tavern owner Norman Journey who kept the Jack O'Shea tradition of free corned beef and cabbage on St. Patrick's Day.
However, in 1983, the Irish pub was sold to two brothers by the name of Burke who overhauled the decor in the place, turning it into a more modern bar with mirrored walls and a drop-down white ceiling while changing the name to Burke's Place. Of course, that didn't go over well with the regulars and the Burke brothers were forced to close the business in 1985.
Jim Venincasa grew up in the neighborhood - just a block away from the original O'Shea's Shamrock Pub -and soon after he graduated from high school he started working in a restaurant kitchen. After becoming a chef and working at a handful of restaurants in the St. Louis area, Venincasa and his good friend, Danny Liston (who was locally famous as a guitar player in Mama's Pride, a Southern rock band who had a some success in the early 70's) decided to buy Burke's Place. They pulled down the stick-on mirrored walls, they pulled down the white drop-down ceiling to re-expose the original tin ceiling. They found the original Anheuser-Busch ornate backbar that was in storage and re-installed it. Turning it back into a cozy Irish pub, they renamed the place Seamus McDaniel's and opened in November of 1985.
Venincasa and Liston added a back dining room to the small bar just before St. Patrick's Day in 1986, and added a beer garden behind the building some time later. In 1990, they took over a space next door to their pub that they leased out to an upholstery shop to expand their place even more. The pub became known for their burgers, reuben sandwiches, and homemade potato chips. And it was also a favorite place to gather before and after St. Louis Blues hockey games when they played at the old St. Louis Arena until 1994. Seamus McDaniel's used to run a shuttle bus for fans to and from the nearby arena when the arena was open.
Liston was a recovering alcoholic and owning a bar was always a challenge. In 2002, he spearheaded a reunion of Mama's Pride playing some dates around the area. By 2003, Liston was through with the bar business selling his shares to Venincasa and his wife, Susan. The Venincasa's continued to run Seamus McDaniel's, but, quite tragically, Jimmy Venincasa died suddenly at the age of 56 in April of 2015, weeks after he and his wife were the co-Grand Marshalls of the Ancient Order of Hibernians St. Patrick's Day Parade held each year along Tamm Ave. in Dogtown. Susan Venincasa continues to own and operate Seamus McDaniel's today.
Parking along the stretch of Clayton and down Tamm can be pretty challenging most times, but an unseasonably early November snowstorm had blanketed the city with over six inches of snow the night before and the parking situation along the streets was sort of a mess. However, Seamus McDaniel's has a small parking lot in back and even though there were piles of snow in some spots I was able to find an open parking space.
Inside Seamus McDaniel's, the original bar area is just inside the front door. The original tin roof ceiling and the original ornate back bar were very eye catching. This was a great little neighborhood bar.
In back of the bar area was the back room that added in 1986. It featured dark walnut wall panels, a stone floor and a stone fireplace in the corner. The room added about a couple dozen seats to Seamus McDaniels when it was open.
Off to the side area from the bar was the addition that was opened in 1990. This was a much bigger room with natural light coming in from windows on the south side. This space more than doubled the number of patrons Seamus McDaniels could serve.
In the far back of the place beyond the back room was an "L"-shaped all-seasons room that had garage-style doors that would open up to a back outdoor patio and to the parking lot. The all-seasons room tremendously expanded the number of seats in the place. If you just looked at Seamus McDaniels from the front, you would be surprised - as I was - at how big it really is in the place.
I ended up seated at the bar and was greeted by Maria, the bartender on duty that day. She gave me a food menu and asked what I'd like to drink. They had all the good Irish beers on tap - Guinness, Smithwick's and Harp - as well as some domestic beers. I decided to have a Harp while I looked through the menu.
They had about a dozen appetizers on the menu including the St. Louis staple - toasted ravioli, as well as a garlic bread topped with provel cheese, breaded mushrooms, and chicken wings. Soups and salads were also available, along with a number of burgers, sandwiches, and main entrees that ran the gamut from steaks to chicken dishes to pasta selections.
Seamus McDaniels is famous for their burgers and their sandwiches. I had a burger the day before or I probably would have signed up for their Swiss cheese and mushroom burger where you get your choice of either sautéed mushrooms or a mushroom gravy on the burger. I probably would have got for the mushroom gravy. Sandwiches included a roast beef sandwich with a choice of either au jus or beef gravy, a buffalo chicken sandwich topped with provel cheese, and an 8 oz. ribeye steak sandwich with sautéed mushrooms and sautéed onions.
I ended up going with the reuben sandwich. Instead of fries, I asked Maria if I could get a side salad with their house-made Greek dressing. Maria said, "Oooo, good choice." The salad was very good and I really enjoyed the tangy Greek dressing.
The reuben featured thin-cut corned beef piled high on marbled-rye bread topped with Swiss cheese and sauerkraut. Instead of putting the Thousand Island dressing on the sandwich, a small container of it came on the side. That was fine with me as sometimes restaurants will put too much dressing on their reubens.
The corned beef on this reuben was, well, in a word, fantastic. Some of the best and most flavorful corned beef I've ever tasted. The spices they use were very prevalent with each bite of the sandwich. I asked Maria if they cooked it in-house and she said she wasn't sure. She checked with someone else and came back and said that they do cook and slice the corned beef in house, however, they get the corned beef from a local food purveyor who seasons it in advance for Seamus McDaniels. The marble-rye bread was thin, but held together very well with the moist sauerkraut and oozing Swiss cheese on the sandwich. Occasional dips of the sandwich into the dressing made it a multi-flavored experience.
I've been coming to St. Louis on a regular basis for business for over 30 years - about as long as Seamus McDaniels has been in business. I seriously can't believe that I hadn't found the place until this visit. It's not far from where I stay in St. Louis and I could see myself hanging out at Seamus McDaniels on future trips to the city. The reuben sandwich was one of the best I've had, I thought it was a great value considering how much corned beef (and how good the corned beef was) they put on the sandwich, and I really liked the atmosphere of the place - which is surprisingly larger than it looks from the front of the place. The service was prompt and friendly, and it really gave me the feeling of being in an authentic Irish pub. Now that I found the place, they could be my home bar away from home when I go to St. Louis.