On a recent trip out to Indianapolis, I was looking for restaurants not too far from my hotel on the north side of the city for a late lunch/early dinner since I have still been on my OMAD (One Meal a Day) diet to help me continue to lose weight. (I'm down 60 pounds since I started my diet nearly a year ago.) I was sort of hungry for barbecue, but the two places near my hotel I had already been to before. I was looking for someplace new and I found a barbecue place that popped up as a suggestion on my GPS that was about a 10 minute drive away. It was a place called Porkopolis and I wasn't familiar with it. I thought I'd go and check the place out.
Brady Bogen and Matt Hamilton are lifelong friends who grew up together in Columbus, OH. Bogen went into radio broadcasting while Hamilton got his degree from Indiana University and got into the hospitality business. Hamilton worked for a number of restaurant ventures around the United States before settling in Phoenix a number of years ago. Bogen was already living in Phoenix and working as a morning rush disc jockey at a popular hard rock/heavy metal station. Bogen had started to market a line of barbecue sauces that he categorized as "Midwestern sweetness with Southwestern flavors". Brady's Sauce was already a favorite around the Phoenix area by the time Hamilton and Bogen reconnected.
Bogen's direct family lineage dates back to the early 1800's as he is the direct decedent of George Bogen, one of the first meat packers to open in Cincinnati. Hamilton and Bogen thought that maybe they needed to think beyond just sauces and open a barbecue joint in the Valley of the Sun. They enlisted the help of Roger McConnell, a local butcher who moved from Iowa to the Mesa area in the early 90's to open a meat shop featuring corn-fed Midwestern beef and pork. With McConnell supplying the top notch pork and beef for the new venture, the trio opened the first Porkopolis in the Phoenix suburb of Chandler in 2012. The got the name from a nickname Bogen's great-great grandfather called Cincinnati in the mid-1800's. In 2016, the group opened a second location in Scottsdale.
Gavin Hart had gone to college with Matt Hamilton at Indiana and had gotten into the restaurant business, himself. He and his wife had been franchisees of a number of restaurants including Dunkin Donuts, Dairy Queen and BurgerFi. The Harts owned a Dairy Queen on N. Michigan just north of 465 near Zionsville, but they were sort of getting tired with that format and wanted to do something else.
Hamilton and Hart stayed in touch over the years and Hart voiced his desire to do something else with his Dairy Queen location, possibly a barbecue place. Hamilton suggested that Hart come down to Phoenix to take a look at their Porkopolis operation. Once he was there, Hart immediately liked the concept, down to the sauces they served at the restaurant. Hart immediately signed on board as a part-owner of Porkopolis.
In early 2018, the Hart's closed the Dairy Queen location and started to renovate it into a Porkopolis location. About six months later, the transformation was complete and they opened the Indianapolis Porkopolis in the fall of 2018.
I came across W. 86th Street as the late afternoon traffic on I-465 was bumper to bumper. I turned north on N. Michigan and headed under the interstate and further up the road to the north. On my left, I saw the Porkopolis location, but there was no way for me to take a left hand turn into the place. I went up to the light on 106th Street, did a U-turn and headed back down Michigan toward Porkopolis. (see map)
From the outside, I could still kind of see that the building was one of those pre-fab franchise-type restaurants that, I guessed, was possibly a Kentucky Fried Chicken at one point. Only after I found out that it used to be a Dairy Queen did I realize that I was sort of track with my thinking. The restaurant shared its parking lot with a convenience store/gas station next door.
Walking into Porkopolis, I found a well-appointed and cozy space with a full bar on one end, an open kitchen off to the side and a smattering of tables and booths down the long narrow dining area. An outdoor patio was in front of the building facing N. Michigan Ave. Since it was late in the afternoon, I was the only one in there. In fact, the whole time I was there, I was the only one in there.
I was seated at a booth by Kareem, a soft-spoken young man who would also be my server. Kareem seemed distracted during my visit constantly looking out the window looking at - or for - god knows what. He gave me a menu and I asked what kind of craft beer they had. He really didn't know what they had, so I made my way up to the bar to check out the selection on tap. I spied a Bell's Two Hearted Ale and ordered up a pint of that.
The menu had your normal barbecue specialties - baby back ribs, brisket, pulled pork, smoked chicken and smoked turkey. They also had a number of barbecued meat sandwiches, as well as a burger, a rib-eye steak and southern fried chicken for people not looking for barbecue. A number of interesting items such as jambalaya with smoked pork and chicken, pulled pork tacos, and an appetizer called fried gumbo - deep fried chunks of shrimp, catfish and okra mixed together and seasoned with a rub concocted by Brady Bogen.
I really wanted to try some barbecue - I normally like to get the combo platter when I do barbecue - but something else grabbed my attention. I ended up getting the smoked meatloaf. It consisted of a mixture of pork and beef cooked in the smoker, then sliced and placed on the grill to finish it off. It was served on a bed of mashed potatoes with green beans as a side. A liberal amount of Brady's sweet and smoky sauce was placed on top of the meat loaf.
The meat loaf was actually pretty good. It had a nice smoked flavor and the char from the grill helped give it a nice finish on the taste buds. The pork and beef mixture - how I like to make my meat loaf at home - was very flavorful. And the sauce was a great complement to all the taste sensations. I'm always dubious of meat loaf on the road, but Porkopolis' meat loaf more than satiated my appetite.
But I still wanted to try some of their barbecue, so along with the meat loaf I ordered the burnt ends appetizer. It was a small bowl filled with tender brisket ends topped with the same sweet and smoky sauce that was on the meat loaf. It was sort of expensive for what I was served, but it was still very good.
They had four different types of sauces on the table - there was a regular sauce in a Porkopolis bottle, the sweet and smoky Brady's sauce, a hot and sweet Brady's sauce, and a very interesting Sriacha chile verde sauce. I tried some of that on the mashed potatoes and I liked it immensely. It was a little too salty for my liking, but the sauce really livened up the somewhat dull mashed potatoes. In hindsight, I should have picked up a bottle of Sriacha green sauce when I was there.
For my first visit to Porkopolis, I come away pretty impressed. I was a little concerned about three things - I was the only one that was in there the whole time I was there (I left around 5:30 p.m.), the server was a little distracted (but he did an OK job of taking care of any request I had), and it is sort of a pain to get to if you're traveling north on N. Michigan. But the smoked meat loaf was very good, as was the burnt end appetizer. It was a nice and comfortable setting and there wasn't much of a hint that the place used to be a Dairy Queen up to a little over a year before. I liked Porkopolis and if you're in the area you probably should give it a try.