Last fall, I was required to shepherd one of our factory guys from the U.K. around the Midwest. Thankfully, he was a good guy who I had known from working with a previous company so the nearly 1400 mile journey (then a flight for meetings in Phoenix at the end of the week) was pleasurable enough. We met up in Chicago to go see dealers there and we ended up our first day seeing one of my accounts in the far western suburbs. I suggested that my dealer and his wife go out to dinner for us and they suggested one of their favorite places - Preservation Bread & Wine - in Geneva, IL. My dealer and his wife drove us from their shop over to Geneva to have dinner that evening.
Lawrence Colburn is a Quad Cities native who grew up in Rock Island. After high school, he went off to study art in Chicago, but became involved with restaurants working as a highly-trained sommelier in some of the more posh eateries in the city. Colburn eventually graduated to managing some of the higher-end restaurants in Chicago. Colburn's love for art, European wines and locally sourced, seasonal foods led to his wish to someday open a restaurant of his own.
During his days off, he and his daughter, Ella, would ride the trains to some of Chicago's suburbs just to look around at possible sites for a restaurant. The first time they visited Geneva, Colburn noticed the community had a distinct and welcoming vibe and subsequent weekend visits to the town pretty much reinforced his notion that this was the place to put a restaurant. In fact, he loved Geneva so much that he moved his family to the area.
Pictured right - Lawrence Colburn pours a glass of wine for patrons at Preservation Bread & Wine. Photo courtesy Daily Herald
Colburn found a building not far from the train station in Geneva and renovated the space in late 2009/early 2010. With everything ready to go, Preservation Bread & Wine opened in June of 2010.
(In 2016, Colburn took a plunge into another restaurant venture - Atlas Chicken Shack - that is located next door to Preservation Bread & Wine. It's carry-out only, but there are picnic tables in a small outside walkway between the two buildings. Colburn sources his chickens from an Amish farmer in northwest Indiana who raises free-range, hormone and antibiotic-free chickens.)
We pulled into a parking lot just down the street from Preservation Bread & Wine which is located on S. 3rd St. in Geneva. (see map) Entering the restaurant, I found a small and narrow space with a few high-top tables and a small bar. I thought, "Wow, this place is really small." However, it was a beautiful evening and my dealer and his wife wanted to eat out back on the patio.
We went down a long hallway next to the wall and walked out into another four-season room that was a dining room. And beyond that was a somewhat spacious, yet cozy, outdoor dining area. Lights were strung above the tables and a small stage was over in the corner of courtyard out back. They had an open mic night at Preservation Bread & Wine and a young man with an acoustic guitar got up and did a couple songs to start out. Our hostess who showed us to our seats at a table on the patio went up on stage and did a couple songs with the guitarist later in the evening.
In the back patio/courtyard area, they had a nice outdoor bar with a wooden arbor above the rectangular bar. It was much larger than the inside bar. And it appeared to be a pretty popular spot as it was pretty full most of the time we were there.
This is the small walkway between Preservation Bread and Atlas Chicken Shack. It, too, was well-lit with hanging strings of lights illuminating the area between the buildings.
Before she went up to sing a couple songs, our hostess took us to a table on the patio and dropped off menus - both a food menu and a wine menu - for us to look over. The wine menu was pretty impressive as they had European wines primarily from Italy, France and Spain, but they also had wines from Germany, Croatia and Austria available. I saw an Argentine malbec on the wine list, as well as a number of wines from the West Coast of the US. Many of the wines were from smaller and more obscure wineries in California, Oregon and Washington. I think I was only familiar with 1 or 2 of the wineries they had listed. But that is one of the hallmarks of Lawrence Colburn's knowledge of wines from around the world. This place was a wine connoisseur's paradise. We got a bottle of the cabernet sauvignon from the Cultivar winery located in Napa Valley.
While the menu features a few sandwiches such as a dill rye reuben, lamb sliders, and a baguette smoked pork loin/pork shoulder sandwich, our guests talked us into going the route they normally go - getting a number of shareable plates. We took their lead and just started to order a little bit of everything until we got full.
Our server during our visit to Preservation Bread & Wine was a young lady by the name of Iris. We warned her in advance that we were probably going to be all over the place with our orders and she may be having to check back multiple times during the meal. She cheerily said that would be no problem for her and she took our first order of the evening.
The first thing we got was the combination charcuterie board with an accompanying plate of sliced Spanish cheese. The charcuterie board featured Italian speck - an uncooked, salted and aged pork meat that is similar to shaved ham, soppressata salami, and duck prosciutto. The Spanish cheeses included a cow milk cheese, a goat milk cheese and a sheep milk cheese. Slices of apples came with both the charcuterie and cheese boards.
Next was something my account's wife came up with - the duck spinach salad. It featured crispy chunks of duck mixed with fresh spinach and dried cherries, and served on a bed of wild rice. It was big enough where we could all share it, but my dealer's wife was somewhat disappointed with it. "It's been better on other visits we've had here," she said almost apologetically. I don't know how it could get much better because I thought it was
From there we went with the spicy falafel. They were served on a bed of parsley along with a house-made tzatziki sauce and chopped walnut. There were a lot of flavors going on with the falafel and there was something definitely spicy in the mix. The cool tzatziki sauce did a good job of balancing out the spiciness of the falafel.
One of the more interesting items was the short rib pie. It was a baked pastry shell stuffed with beef short rib meat, onions and carrots in a gravy. The short rib pie was delicious. It had a wonderful savory flavor and the puffed pastry shell was light and fluffy.
The food just kept coming as we ordered up the pulled pork sandwich. It came deconstructed with a house-baked bread roll that you could cut and make a sandwich with the pork. Or you could just pull the bread apart - like we did - and use it to sop up some of the sauce on the plate. The pulled pork was very tender and had a nice sweet and smokey flavor. But the bread - actually, all the bread we had that evening - was outstanding. Colburn hires his in-house bakers only after they go through the 10 week bread-making course at the prestigious French Pastry School located in Chicago. I could have just pigged out on the bread, but that wouldn't have been good for my diet. Good bread - good wine, now I get why the place is named Preservation Bread & Wine.
Finishing out the evening was a flat bread made with a house made fennel Italian sausage with fresh arugula and Cello parmesan cheese. The flat bread was light and airy, the Italian sausage had that great fennel flavor with a hint of a spice. It was a very good flat bread, but by this time of the evening - and a couple bottles of wine later - we had pretty much filled ourselves up.
Two things that I like to do when going out to eat - finding a restaurant that A) has some pretty interesting wines that I'm not familiar with; and B) has a number of eclectic and intriguing food selections that are shareable; and C) is located in an interesting and fun setting. Preservation Bread & Wine hit all three of those criteria for me. The food was very interesting and everything we had was very good, the wine was obscure - at least for me - and it was very good. And it was very tough to beat the nice little patio/courtyard in back of Preservation Bread. Finally, I can't say enough about our server who we ran ragged with more orders of more food and more wine for the time we were there. Even though we sprung for the meal, I couldn't help but thank my dealer for bringing us to Preservation Bread & Wine for dinner that evening.