With pent-up frustration from being stuck at home for the last five-plus months, my wife and I threw caution to the wind and decided to take some time off recently and head out on a weeklong vacation. We headed up north to Minnesota - not quite mirroring our trip to Minnesota from last year - but heading further north to the Bemidji area, approximately 100 miles south of the Canadian border. I remember being in Bemidji and the surrounding area when I was young and it was sort of fun to try and remember some of the things we saw on this trip.
For our time away, I wanted to find some place where we could stay in relative comfort, but be on a lake. I've gone long past the urge to pitch a tent somewhere and I like to say that my idea of camping is leaving the window open at the hotel at night. Since I'm a Lifetime Hilton Honors Diamond Member and have a boatload of points - even though I haven't traveled since March - I did a Google search for "Hilton properties on a lake." It took me to a web site that listed about five or six Hilton hotel properties on lakes around the U.S. The first one listed was the Bemidji Doubletree Hotel. I was sort of intrigued as it had been years since I had been in Bemidji. We spent a few days last summer at a Hampton Inn in Spicer, MN, but Spicer and the surrounding area didn't offer much in terms of food choices. And since we like to try different restaurants out when we go on trips, I sort of figured that Bemidji - being much larger than Spicer - would probably have ample choices of places to eat in and around the area.
We had missed a chance to head to California for our 25th wedding anniversary earlier this year, so we were understandably disappointed when the pandemic pretty much took away those plans. But we figured that if we drove to some place that wasn't a big population center and could sort of watch out for ourselves if big crowds developed, we would be fine. The Bemidji area sounded like the perfect spot for us.
In my years of being a Hilton Honors member, I've found that most Doubletree hotels that I've found are usually older hotels that were sort of run-down. It was like Hilton took over what were at one time some very nice properties that had grown tired over the years and slapped the Doubletree name on the front. But that was very far from the truth with this particular hotel. It had been completed in 2014 and featured six floors of very nice rooms. It was connected with the Bemidji Hampton Inn & Suites and both hotels shared a Green Mill bar and restaurant. (see map) My wife and I went into the Green Mill one night to get a drink and the smell of the old grease from the fryers almost made my wife gag. It was pretty bad. We decided to take our drinks back up to our room instead of hanging at the bar.
The hotels were built on the grounds of the original Crookston Lumber Mill which was built in the early 1900's by Eastern investors hoping to cash in on what was a large amount of ample timber in forests in the surrounding area. At one point in time, over 2000 men worked at what was the nation's second largest lumber mill which ran 24 hours a day, 7 days a week processing wood that would be shipped all over the U.S. However, a massive fire in 1924 destroyed the sawmill and over 24,000,000 board feet of white pine timber valued at $750,000 (or $11.3 million dollars in today's money). By that time, however, most of the north woods of Minnesota had been cut out and the mill's owners decided not to rebuild and moved on to more timberland in the Pacific Northwest.
When I was six years old, I was traveling with my family to Lake of the Woods in extreme southwestern Ontario where my late-great uncle had a lodge that became sort of a favorite family destination when I was growing up. (The lodge - Reel 'Em Inn - is still there. My family sold it in the early 70's and it has changed hands a few times over the years. Click here to go to their web site.) On this trip, we stopped for the night in Bemidji and stayed at a motel. That motel is long gone but my wife and I deduced over dinner one evening that it had to be the old Edgewater Hotel where we stayed. Well, it turns out from talking with a couple locals that the Hampton Inn and Doubletree sit on the site of the former Edgewater Hotel that was torn down in 2002. I was sort of amazed when I realized that I was literally staying at the same location when I was six years old - only in a different hotel.
The Doubletree had rooms that faced Lake Bemidji and we got a room on the top floor with a balcony. The views were excellent. The first day we were there, the wind was coming directly off the lake and we kept the sliding glass door open that night to sleep with the cool breeze and to hear the loons on the lake. Actually, I think I only heard one loon the whole time we were there. The hotel had beach facilities and you could rent paddle boats and kayaks to take out onto the lake.
Another great thing about the Bemidji area are the number of bike paths in the area. The terrain is pretty flat and there are miles and miles of bike paths around the lake that includes the Paul Bunyan Bike Trail, a 106 mile trail that goes from Bemidji down to Brainerd, MN. The hotel also had bikes for rent and we thought about renting a couple bikes one day - until we inspected them. They were a little tired and tattered, and we didn't want to be 10 miles away from the hotel and have a bike break down.
The hotels had dock facilities, as well, with benches on the docks. It was nice to head down to the docks - dodging the spider webs that would magically show up overnight after being knocked down by hotel personnel each day - and hang out looking at the clear waters of Lake Bemidji. We also found a nice little park near the campus of Bemidji State University where we could sit in Adirondack chairs to read and look out over the lake.
Also along the lake front in Bemidji are the world famous statues of Paul Bunyan and his faithful companion Babe, the Blue Ox. Paul Bunyan is a mythical hero who was concocted in northwoods logging camps over 125 years ago. Tales spun about Paul's larger than life frame and persona gave loggers something to laugh and dream about in even the most adverse conditions. In the early 1900's, Paul Bunyan's heroic stories were first published in books and newspapers in the northern United States and Canada. By the 1920's and into the 1930's, Paul Bunyan became a large part of American folklore, a beloved figure who worked the northern timber with the help of Babe, an oxen who - according to one of many story-tellers who added to the Paul Bunyan mystique - had been rescued from an ice drift by Paul, but not until it had turned blue. The city of Bemidji, hoping to drive tourists to the area, built the statues of Paul and Babe in 1937 in conjunction with a carnival the city put on. In 1988, the statues were listed on the National Register of Historic Places. But by the turn of the century, the statues had deteriorated due to wear and tear. In 2006 the local Rotary club raised just over $50,000 dollars to go along with a $68,000 federal grant to refurbish the statues of Paul and Babe. They looked pretty good to me when we were there.
Now, when I was six years old and I first saw the Paul and Babe statues, I thought they were the biggest things in the world. When I got back there so many years later, when I first saw them I said to my wife, "OK, where's the bigger statues?" I mean, these weren't all that small - Paul stands 28 feet high - but I just remember as a little kid that these things were towering! Of course, the trees weren't behind the statues all those years ago, so the perspective may have been skewed. But still, I was sort of taken aback at how small they looked to me after all these years. (Well, as a little kid, I always thought the house I grew up in was huge - 3 bedrooms, 1 1/2 baths, living room, den. But now when I walk into the place - my sister lives in the old farmhouse now - I marvel at how small it is to me and wonder just how in the hell 8 people ever lived in a house so damned small.)
At one point in time, Kodak proclaimed that Paul and Babe were the second most photographed statues in the United States - only behind Mount Rushmore. Now, I find this rather incredulous on a number of levels. First of all, I may have stretched my description of the statues as being "world famous". Secondly, I think of Mount Rushmore as more of a sculpture than a statue. (But, I guess all statues are really sculptures.) And I think that Kodak conveniently forgot about the Statue of Liberty and the Lincoln Memorial when they did their surveys of most photographed statues. I can't believe that people at one time took more pictures of the statues of Paul and Babe in little Bemidji, MN than pictures were taken of the Statue of Liberty.
With the pandemic, we were wondering what the rules were for restaurants and public buildings before we left. I called the hotel and was told that masks were mandatory in public places, stores and restaurants. You could take your mask off once you were seated in a restaurant, but if you got up to, say, use the restroom, you had to have your mask on. Actually, we didn't find it too intrusive and it really became force of habit for us to just take our masks anywhere and put them on before we went in a building.
However, if you know anything about northern Minnesota, you'll know that most residents up there don't like to be told what to do by the government. When Governor Tim Walz declared in late June of this year that masks were required in buildings and restaurants, not a lot of people north of St. Cloud were happy about that. In fact, a local group started a campaign against Walz and his ideas about masking up. We were driving down the highway one day and came upon a billboard showing the feelings of many people in the area when it came to the governor's edict on mask. The group sponsoring the billboards called themselves the "Rocks and Cows of the North" because Governor Walz disparaged the region during his campaign saying that they only thing in northern Minnesota were rocks and cows. The billboard pretty summed up the feelings of many people in the area. But for the most part, we found the vast majority - probably 98 percent of the people we encountered - were wearing masks. One restaurant owner told us, "At first people bitched about it, but after a couple weeks a lot of those people just decided to quit belly-aching and wear a mask." (Photo of billboard courtesy KVRR-TV in Fargo, ND.)
A couple things sort of got me wondering about Bemidji while we were there. First off, I was amazed at the number of chiropractors in the area. After getting back to the hotel one day, I did a quick Google search for chiropractors in the immediate Bemidji area and there were over 20 clinics listed. Now, we come from the birthplace of chiropractic medicine and we have a lot of chiropractors in the Quad Cities. But for a city the size of Bemidji (about 15,500 people) we figured that there was 1 chiropractor for 675 residents.
Secondly, we kept seeing little signs and phrases around town that called Bemidji the "1st City". Well, I knew from junior high history classes that Bemidji couldn't have been the first city founded in Minnesota. I was sort of dumbfounded as to why they called themselves the "1st City" until I saw a sign one day that signified Bemidji as the "first city on the Mississippi River." The source of the Mississippi is Lake Itasca, about 30 miles south and west of Bemidji as the crow flies. And it is, indeed, the first city on the Mississippi as the river feeds Lake Bemidji from the south before it continues on from the east side of the lake.
Now, being a lifelong geography geek who is enamored with borders, beginnings and ends, I had to go to the source of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca. Well, and the fact that I've lived in a city along the Mississippi River for the past 29 years. It was a quick 35 minute drive from our hotel in Bemidji to the Mary Gibbs Mississippi Headwaters Center near the north entrance to Lake Itasca State Park.
After paying a $7.00 daily fee to use the park, we pulled into the parking lot at the center and took a path down to a viewing area of the source of the Mississippi. It was basically like what I had seen in pictures over the years. There was the wooden sign declaring this spot to be the source of the Mississippi River stood on one side of a rock barrier that you could walk across - and many people were. (For a live web cam of the headwaters of the Mississippi River, you can click here.)
The water was clean and clear, a marked difference from the muddy waters we have flowing past us on the Mississippi back home. The start of the Mississippi was nothing more than a babbling brook slowly making its way from Lake Itasca.
There was a nice wooden walkway that we took along the first few yards of the river's edge. Down a ways from the source, the small river took a sharp turn toward the east and a small bridge crossed the stream - the first of many bridges to cross the Mississippi on its way to the Gulf of Mexico over 2500 miles downstream.
Lake Itasca is one of the more popular state parks in Minnesota. It was established in 1891 making it the oldest state park in Minnesota. Lake Itasca State Park sits on over 32,000 total acres and there are more than 100 lakes within its boundaries. The main Lake Itasca has a nice scenic drive around it with some places where you can stop and take paths to get some scenic view and take in nature. It was worth the $7 bucks we spent.
Another spot that I remember from my family travels as a youth was the town of Blackduck, about 25 miles northeast of Bemidji. I only remember Blackduck from the large black duck statue that they had at one of the intersections that went through town. ("Go straight at the black duck in Blackduck" was one of our favorite sayings on the way to Baudette, MN where we would cross the border.) Well, my wife's father had mentioned something about Blackduck when we told him where we were going and he said, "You know, we were up there about 15 years ago and we went into a gift shop. They had a little black duck statue that was like the big statue they had in town and I wish I would have gotten it."
Well, hell, we had driven 600 miles from the Quad Cities to Bemidji. What's another 25 miles to get a black duck for my father-in-law?
Blackduck is like many Minnesota towns that are on the way to the Canadian border from the Twin Cities. When we would go to Canada years and years ago, it was mostly two-lane roadways that went through places like Little Falls, Brainerd, Walker, Cass Lake, Bemidji and Blackduck. However, since the last time I made the two-lane highway trek with my late father, my brother, and my late brother-in-law to the lodge on Lake of the Woods a number of years ago, those two-lane roads have been replaced by four-lane highways that by-pass many of the towns. And the things that you used to see along the way - like the Paul Bunyan and Babe statues - well, you don't see them any longer unless you go into town. And that's what happened with the black duck statue at Blackduck.
The original black duck statue in Blackduck sat at a small park in the center of town. That park is now the site of a funeral home. The duck was moved next to the Blackduck fire department a number of years ago. This duck was crafted from concrete in 1942 and is actually the second large black duck statue the town had. The first one, we were told, looked pretty bad and was destroyed.
The "new" black duck statue is in a park on the west side of town along Highway 71. This one is made from fiberglass and is a more realistic depiction of a duck compared to the decoy-like figure the old black duck statue portrays. We were told that locals still bicker about the two ducks as there is an "old duck" camp and a "new duck" camp.
We did find a small gift shop in Blackduck and we did find a small black duck statuette that I bought for my father-in-law. The owner filled us in on the history of the ducks, the "new duck" vs. "old duck" factions and the number one question he gets from people, "OK, so where's the BIG black duck?" I, too, thought the original black duck next to the fire station was sort of puny in size from what I remember. But that was also a long time ago and I thought the Paul Bunyan statue was relatively small from what I remember it being. "For some reason people think that when we put up the new duck out by the highway, we got rid of the old duck and put up a half-scale size statue of it by the firehouse," he told us. "But, nope. That's the original black duck." My wife and I are firmly on Team "Old Duck".
Another thing Bemidji is famous for is being the proclaimed "Curling Capital of the United States." They take curling very seriously in Bemidji and a number of local curlers have represented the country in various Winter Olympics over the years. Now, I love curling - how can you not love a sport that basically encourages you to drink as you play?
Well, they have a curling club in Bemidji - the Bemidji Curling Club which is located on the west side of the city. (see map) And, dammit, I wanted a Bemidji Curling Club t-shirt. We drove out there one afternoon and found the place was locked up tighter than a drum. My wife tried calling the number they had listed on their web site and it was disconnected. I had already picked up a Bemidji State Hockey t-shirt from one of the shops in downtown Bemidji, so I was hellbent on getting a Bemidji Curling Club shirt. But there were none to be found. We talked with a number of people who really didn't know why it was shut down. "Summertime, I think," said one young lady at the t-shirt shop where I bought the Bemidji State Hockey shirt. "Nobody wants to be indoors in the summer," another guy told us. "I thought their office was open, but if you got a disconnection message when you called, then who knows," a lady working at a restaurant told us. We decided that we'd contact them after we got back home. I'd LOVE a Bemidji Curling Club t-shirt.
One of the more whimsical moments in our travels to Minnesota was at our hotel in St. Cloud, MN where we stopped for the night on our way up to Bemidji. (It's a nine hour journey from home to Bemidji and my wife can't handle being in a car much more than six hours at a time.) When we pulled into the hotel, the Planters Nutmobile was in the parking lot. And it was still there when we were getting ready to leave the next morning. We just had one of the Oscar Mayer Weinermobiles in the Quad Cities for about a week and it was sort of funny to see the Weinermobile and the Nutmobile in the space of five days.
Speaking of St. Cloud, my wife wanted to head back to the Munsinger Gardens that we had visited last year on our vacation to Minnesota. We especially wanted to see the Clemons Rose Garden as the rose bushes had been hit hard during the previous winter last year and they were in the process of replanting a number of bushes in the garden area. The rose garden was much nicer this year and we got a few ideas for possible varieties of roses to plant in our rose garden back home. It was a great morning stroll at the start of a cool Minnesota day. Everything was so lush and green - not only at the Munsinger Gardens, but throughout our trip to Northern Minnesota. They had definitely gotten a lot more rain this summer up there than what we have had in Iowa which now has abnormally dry to extremely dry drought conditions across the state.
The weather the week we were there, for the most part, was beautiful. As I said, it was a little cool when we got to Bemidji, but it turned out to be perfect weather for the vast majority of time we spent there. Only one day did it rain - one morning we heard thunder off in the distance around 5 a.m. It started to rain pretty well after that and when we got out of bed around 8 a.m., it was still raining off and on. But by the time we went to get coffee at one of the coffee shops around 10:00 a.m., the rain had stopped. By 11:00 a.m, the sun had come out and by noon, you couldn't tell that it had even rained, save for a few puddles here and there. Highs each day were in the low to mid 80's - with the exception of the first day when it made it to only 72 degrees. And the day we left, we woke up to heavy fog over the lake and low clouds. My wife remarked that it's much easier to leave a vacation destination when the weather is crappy versus when it's still beautiful out.
It was a great vacation, to say the least. It was very nice to get away for a short while and we contemplated staying a day or two longer before we decided to start heading back home. And we did what you're supposed to do on a vacation - we read books along the lake, we took walks on the bike path around the lake, we napped in the afternoon, we drank some good craft beers, we slept in in the mornings, we ate at some good to very good places - although we did miss going to Red Stu Breakfast Bar, Fozzie's Smokin' Barbecue and a little gourmet hot dog stand called Lucky Dogs (my wife vetoed that one, but next time, yes) - we explored the surrounding areas, we hung out on our hotel room deck admiring the lake, and we did what you're supposed to do on a vacation - just relax. With all that has been going on with the world over the past few months, it was certainly good to just relax for a few days with little to no worries.