During our trip to New Mexico, we spent a few days and nights in Santa Fe, the capital city of the state. Santa Fe is not only the seat of government in the state, but it's also the center of the arts community in the state. And not only is the arts community big in Santa Fe, but the entertainment industry is also large with dozens of production companies having offices and studios in the area. Over the years, there has been a slew of television shows and movies that have been filmed in and around the Santa Fe area. As we were told while we were there, the three largest employers in the area are either the state of New Mexico, the tourism industry, or the film industry. We found that to be rather fascinating.
We flew into Albuquerque and after a nice lunch there we drove up to Santa Fe, about an hour drive north and east of Albuquerque. We stayed at the Doubletree in Santa Fe using up some Hilton Honors points that I'm starting to pile up again with my traveling resuming. I wanted to stay at the Hilton in downtown Santa Fe, but they wanted too many points for our stay.
The Doubletree wasn't bad, at all. It was clean, comfortable, had a nice little bar, and the staff was more than accommodating. (Especially when it came to their famous cookies.) Hilton has really stepped up their game with many of the Doubletree's I've stayed in over the past few years. Years ago, it seemed like most Doubletree's were old tired properties that Hilton had taken over and popped the Doubletree brand on it. But most - if not, all - of the Doubletree's I've stayed in over the past few years are very nice.
As a Hilton Lifetime Diamond member, I can pick the room I want to stay in in advance at most properties through the Hilton app on my phone. It was going to be a super blue full moon during our stay in Santa Fe, so I picked out an east facing room on the top floor with a walk-out deck so we would get a great view of the moon coming up over the mountains to the east. However, when we went to check in and I informed the young lady at the front desk that I had already done an "e-check-in", she cheerfully told me that the hotel had upgraded us to a suite - on the OTHER side of the hotel. And this room was on the "forested" side of the hotel. It was a nice patio deck outside our room, but not much of a view, even from the top floor. This is the view we had while we sat on the deck in our room. While we enjoyed the late afternoon shade on the deck, we would have really rather had the basic king room on the other side. Oh well...
My wife likes art and that was one of the main reasons why we wanted to go to Santa Fe. Sante Fe has so many art galleries that it ranks No. 3 in the nation - behind New York and Los Angeles. There are dozens - no, hundreds - of galleries, large and small all around Sante Fe. But probably the most famous is the Georgia O'Keeffe Gallery/Museum in the heart of Santa Fe.
Georgia O'Keeffe was a modernist artist in the early-to-mid 20th century who had to fight sexism within the art community before being accepted as the "Mother of the Modernist Movement". O'Keeffe first visited New Mexico in 1929 and spent many years on working vacations in Taos, Sante Fe and near the small town of Abiquiu. After the death of her husband, O'Keeffe permanently moved to New Mexico in 1948 and settled into a house and studio she bought in Abiquiu, but continued to spend time in Taos and Santa Fe. She passed away in Santa Fe in 1986 at the age of 98.
The O'Keeffe museum is in a somewhat nondescript building that we had actually driven past a couple times before we realized it was even there. We really didn't know what to expect in terms of artwork in the gallery as we read that it housed over 3000 pieces of her artwork. But they probably showed just 10 to 15 percent of O'Keeffe's artwork they had on hand. It was $20 per person to get in and we were able to get around the exhibit in a little less than 90 minutes as there were a number of wall cards detailing sequences in O'Keeffe's life which led to some of the paintings on display. I have to say I had a bit of trepidation going in, but found it to be well worth the time and money spent.
Probably the most famous area for galleries and studios in Santa Fe is Canyon Road. Located east of downtown Santa Fe (see map), Canyon Road features over 80 galleries, studios and art designers on a narrow street that meanders for about a half mile. We wandered into a few shops fully expecting to get hit on by the artists or gallery owners to buy something right then and there. (As we've experienced in other places during our previous vacations.) But we were pleasantly surprised that most of the people working in the galleries were informative about the artists and their works, but not pushy at all to make a sale. It actually was a nice surprise to be able to wander around a gallery looking at art work without someone hovering over us trying to get us to buy something.
But the number of galleries and studios up and down Canyon Road were almost overwhelming. We spent about an hour and a half walking Canyon Road and I'm sure we didn't hit even a quarter of the galleries. It was interesting, but also somewhat mind-boggling.
Since Santa Fe is the state capital, we had to satisfy my state capitol building fetish and visit the capitol grounds. (By my count, I have now visited 20 state capitol buildings in my travels.) The state capitol in Santa Fe is a modern structure designed in the territorial revival style of architecture that you find in many of the newer buildings in New Mexico. Finished and inaugurated in 1966, the capitol building is the only circular state capitol in the U.S.
The main floor of the capitol building is another art gallery featuring artwork by New Mexican artists. In fact, on the walls of the wings coming off the rotunda as well as the circular hallways with offices that encompass the state house of representative and the senate were filled with artwork. We probably spent 45 minutes walking around looking at even more paintings and sculptures.
The New Mexico state capitol is also one of 11 state capitol buildings in the U.S. without a dome. However, there is a skylight on top of the rotunda that is designed to resemble a Native American basket weave. From above, the building and grounds are designed to look like a Zia sun symbol - similar to the symbol that is on the New Mexico state flag.
The old part of Santa Fe - The Plaza - is one of the more popular places in the city. This is the oldest part of the city dating back to the early 1600's. A number of shops, galleries and restaurants surround the Plaza. On the north side of the Plaza is the Palace of the Governors, the first governmental building used by settlers in the early 17th century. Today, it is the cornerstone of the New Mexico History Museum. Its block long portal in front of the building is reserved for Native American residents to sell jewelry and crafts during the day.
Some evenings the Plaza comes alive with free music on a stage across the street from the Palace of the Governors. During the day, craft vendors and musicians busking under the shade trees helps keep the square vibrant.
Because Santa Fe is one of the oldest settlements in the U.S., there are a lot of historical churches and buildings near the Plaza. This is the San Miguel Chapel, the oldest church in the United States. It was originally built in 1610, but was dismantled after Spanish Franciscan missionaries were expelled from the region by the sitting governor in 1640. That governor was subsequently jailed and the missionaries came back to Santa Fe and reassembled the chapel.
In 1680, the church was damaged during a revolt by the local natives to drive the Spaniards out of the area. However, when the Spaniards returned to the area in 1692 they found the mission was mostly burned out, but salvageable. It was rebuilt on the same foundations of the original church and has gone through numerous updates, renovations and shoring over the years. An interesting dichotomy of old vs. new happened when we were there - the church was outfitted with solar panels and was in the process of becoming fully solar powered. I lingered inside the church long enough to take the picture above right, but churches and I don't get along so well and as soon as I felt like I was going to catch on fire, I left the chapel.
Just down an alley from the San Miguel Chapel was the De Vargas Street House - the sign out front said it was "The Oldest House In the U.S.A.". Known to the locals as "The Old House", the sunbaked adobe was just off the terminus of the Santa Fe Trail, a trader's route that connected Santa Fe with Central Missouri in the early to late 1800's. Although the date of construction is unknown, it's thought that the adobe was built sometime between 1610 and 1620.
And it was a museum. We didn't even venture inside as I thought it had to be somewhat of a tourist trap. It was just an old adobe building where a second story had been put on top in the early 1920's. I wasn't about to spend five minutes in the place seeing a bunch of old relics - even if it was free admission.
But the scenery in and around Santa Fe can be breathtaking at times - especially at sunset. (Here's a tip from Road Tips - talk up the servers at restaurants. They usually know the best places to go, to do and to see in the area.) We were told by one of the people at a restaurant where we were eating that a lot of locals head up to the Cross of the Martyrs to watch the sun set. The Cross of the Martyrs commemorates the death of nearly 400 Spanish colonists and nearly 2 dozen Franciscan monks during a revolt by locals in 1680. The original cross was a reinforced concrete structure that was dedicated in 1920. In 1974, a steel replacement was placed on the former site of Fort Marcy overlooking the city. (See map) There are two parking lots near the outlook and ample parking on the street, if needed.
We went up to see the sun set a couple times during our visit to Santa Fe. At 7000 feet above sea level, the sky is a deep blue with little to no haze. After we got home, we remarked at the complete difference in our hazy midwestern skies and the awesome azure hue in the skies in New Mexico.
One evening, there was a large number of people on the site to watch the sun set in the west, and then wait for the super blue full moon that was scheduled to rise in the east over the mountains after the sun went down. I have an application on my phone that shows the position of the moon, planets and stars at any given moment and I deduced that it would probably be 45 minutes before the moon would rise above the mountains east of Santa Fe. It would have been nice to see, but we also knew that we wouldn't be eating dinner until around 9 p.m. - the closing time for many restaurants in downtown Santa Fe during the week.
While we were in Santa Fe, we were eating at a restaurant one evening and we started to hear these amplified sounds of growls and guttural screams in the distance. My wife asked our server, "What on earth is that noise?"
"Oh, that's the rehearsal for Zozobra," she said casually.
We had no idea what she was talking about, but as our time in Santa Fe went on, we found out that Zozobra was sort of a big deal - figuratively and literally. After learning the history of the Zozobra celebration, we fully understood why people make pilgrimages to Santa Fe on the Friday before Labor Day each year.
Zozobra is a 50-foot tall marionette made out of wood, wire and cotton cloth that is set on fire each Friday before Labor Day. This was the 99th edition of Zozobra which started in 1924 when a local artist made the first Zozobra - then a 6-foot tall effigy - to ward off anguish, anxiety, concern or gloom, words that translate into "zozobra" in Spanish.
I understand that people can bring paid-off mortgages, old police reports or tickets, divorce papers and written notes detailing bad things that have happened to individuals over the past year to an office in Santa Fe up to four months before the Zozobra celebration. The collected paperwork is put inside the gown of the Zozobra marionette and then after a pre-celebration filled with pageantry, Zozobra is set afire to allow all the worries and problems people have given to put into Zozobra to go up in smoke.
Pictured left - Zozobra burning in 2019. Photo courtesy Kiwanis Club of Santa Fe.
It turned out that it's quite the deal - 50,000 people were slated to attend the Zozobra pageant on the day we were leaving to go to Albuquerque. We were told that after two years of having no attendees for Zozobra due to the COVID 19 pandemic, 70,000 people showed up last year. It overwhelmed local authorities to the point that they capped the attendance at 50,000 this year. And I heard that all 50,000 tickets were snapped up months in advance.
We had a few locals ask us if we were in town for Zozobra and we either said we didn't know what it was, or once we found out what it was, we said we weren't going. "Good", or "That's smart", more than one local told us. "It's a zoo," one of our servers told us at a local restaurant the night before the celebration.
Zozobra is so popular that a local television station shows the proceedings live. (You can click here to see the broadcast. If you want to cut to the chase, click ahead to the 23:00 minute mark as that's about the time they torch Zozobra and it goes up in flames.) It's actually pretty neat with all fireworks and dancers beforehand, but once it goes up in smoke, it's pretty much over.
We had a good time in Santa Fe. I had a buddy who was there the week before we were, and he and I were comparing notes before we took off for New Mexico. He said, "My wife is into the art and we were there for 5 days. We pretty much saw everything we wanted to see in 3." And that's sort of what we encountered. A day and a half on an arts walk was almost overwhelming. But it was certainly interesting. We had some pretty good to great meals while we were there, people were friendly, and most importantly, the town was very clean and easy to get around. It was also a nice starting point for some scenic drives into the mountainous deserts of the region. Glad we went. Would I like to go back? Maybe, but I think there's other places I'd like to visit before heading back.