Maybe I should have a category called "Tourist Traps" because I've now visited two of the biggest ones in the U.S. The first one - the famous Wall Drug in Wall, SD - I visited nearly 17 years ago. (Click here to see the entry on Wall Drug. You will also see a very uneven Road Tips in its early days.) On a recent trip to the Carolinas, I was heading down the famed I-95 corridor to meetings in South Carolina. As I got closer to the border, I kept seeing billboards touting South of the Border - a tourist stop just over the South Carolina border from North Carolina. I had heard about South of the Border before and I was going to need some gas at some point. Just before I got over the South Carolina border, I got off I-95 at the US Highway 301/501 exit, then took a left to go into South Carolina and a stop at South of the Border. (see map)
Like most tourist traps, South of the Border got its start back after World War II as a rest area/oasis for travelers heading south to Florida. How it started came from an opportunity when a South Carolina man saw a need to give the people of North Carolina something that they wanted after it was taken away from them.
Alan Schafer was born in Baltimore in 1914, but soon moved to South Carolina when his father Samuel joined Alan's grandfather running a small general goods store/cafe in the village of Little Rock, just a few miles from the North Carolina border. When prohibition ended in 1933, Sam Schafer found that he could drive a truck 400 miles to the north back to Baltimore, pick up beer from one of a number of breweries in the city (Baltimore was known as the "Milwaukee of the East" because of the large German population and the breweries that dotted the city just after Prohibition ended), and drive the beer back to northeastern South Carolina to sell in his general store.
Alan Schafer was attending the University of South Carolina studying journalism when he had to drop out to help his father in the family business after Sam had fallen ill. After learning of his father's beer runs up to Baltimore and back, Alan saw the opportunity to help his father grow his beer distribution business. Alan convinced his father to sell the general store and cafe to focus on beer distribution. With Alan Schafer's business acumen, Schafer Distributing was founded and became the Miller High Life distributor and, later on, the Heineken distributor for much of South Carolina.
Sam Schafer had been sick off and on for a number of years before passing away in 1945, but Alan had been the main cog in the company since before World War II. However, a movement that was afoot just across the border in North Carolina brought to light an opportunity that Schafer was able to capitalize upon.
Pictured right - Alan Schafer. Photo courtesy S.O.B. and the Legend of Alan Schafer documentary.
In 1948, Robeson County, just over the border from Dillon County in South Carolina, became one of the first counties in North Carolina to vote to abolish sales of beer and liquor in what had become a statewide temperance crusade. Suddenly, those who wished to imbibe in alcoholic beverages had to drive to nearby Dillon, SC to buy beer and booze.
While visiting a store in Dillon one day, Schafer saw all the North Carolina license plates in the parking lot and discovered that they were coming across the border to get alcohol. It was then that Schafer saw the opportunity to help out his neighbors from across the border in their quest to get their booze.
Schafer - who by then was a well-to-do businessman and becoming a powerful man in local politics - bought a three acre plot of land from a black woman that abutted up to the North Carolina border just north of Hamer, SC. He paid the woman $500 for the land - a more than fair price in the day as an acre of land was going for about $115 in Dillon County in the late 40's. On the site, Schafer built a simple 18'x36' cement block building, painted it hot pink and opened a beer stand. His continued efforts in local politics - especially within the Democratic Party - made sure that Dillon County stayed wet while other counties in both North and South Carolina were turning dry.
Schafer's place never really had a formal name - Schafer referred to it as the "beer depot" - and it was actually the local post office who came up with "South of the Border" for him. Schafer would get mail that was addressed to "Alan Schafer, South of the North Carolina Border, Hamer, SC". Schafer thought it was a great name for his place and South of the Border was born.
Of course, Schafer's beer stand was a hit - not only with the locals from just across the border, but with the large number of tourists heading south to Florida. Schafer's beer stand was located just a few feet inside the South Carolina state line along U.S. Highway 301 - the main road from just south of Philadelphia, through Washington D.C., then through Virginia, the Carolinas, eventually ending up in Sarasota, Florida. U.S. Highway 301 was popular with people traveling from New England, New York City and even Canada down to Florida's beaches. And the South Carolina/North Carolina border was just about the halfway point for people traveling between New York City and Florida.
Schafer's success riled politicians just across the border and North Carolina governor W. Kerr Scott pressured then-South Carolina governor Strom Thurmond into pushing legislation through the South Carolina legislature that would outlaw beer joints that didn't sell food. When the law was passed in 1950, Schafer shrugged his shoulders and put in a food counter with 10 seats and called it the South of the Border Drive-In. He soon found that he was making more money selling food to travelers than he was to the North Carolina residents coming across the border to get beer.
There weren't any large towns between Fayetteville, NC and Florence, SC, so Schafer's South of the Border added more seats and became a full fledged restaurant in the 1950's. There was a cotton field just to the west of the restaurant and one day Schafer noticed people walking into the cotton field and coming out with fistfuls of cotton balls as souvenirs. This gave Schafer the idea to lease the cotton field from the farmer who owned the land, put a large fence around the property to keep the tourists out and then sold bags of fresh picked cotton to those who wanted some. And, of course, it was an immediate hit. Suddenly, Schafer and South of the Border were in the business of selling souvenirs.
Not long after that, a traveling salesman from New York was traveling home from a trade show in Florida. Low on money and not having enough cash to get back home, the salesman offered Schafer his samples of toy bears, elephants and lions. Schafer gave the grateful salesman $100 for the lot and put the stuffed toys around his restaurant. Within a week, he had sold out of all the toys and garnered a handsome $400 profit.
In 1954, Schafer built a 20-room motel that was a precursor of what would end up to be a 300-room hotel a number of years later. It was then that he took his first trip to Mexico to look for curios and trinkets for his gift shop that was part of his ever growing complex. He met two Mexican men during his trip and hired them to come back to South Carolina to work as bellmen at his hotel. Schafer couldn't remember their names, so he called one "Pedro" and the other one "Pancho". The names became interchangeable and he finally just settled on one name - Pedro - that was used. When more bellboys were hired for the hotel after it was expanded, they were all referred to as "Pedros". A caricature of a small paunchy Mexican man wearing an oversized sombrero eventually became the mascot for South of the Border. (Photo courtesy South of the Border.)
By the late 50's, Schafer had expanded his search for curios, toys, and collectables to Asia, Africa and Europe. And as his business grew, his need for people to work for him grew, as well. Schafer was said to be "color blind" when it came to hiring people. And it caused some consternation with white supremacists - mainly the Ku Klux Klan - who frowned on two things: Schafer's Jewish heritage, and he was hiring black people to work at South of the Border.
When Alan was a little boy, Schafer's mother died during a flu epidemic and he was basically raised by a black woman who helped the Schafer family out with their business. In an era where whites and black didn't mingle, Alan Schafer grew up having black friends and going to the local Baptist church. When Schafer hired black and Mexican workers, he was confronted more than one time by local Klan members who tried to intimidate him. But Schafer - sometimes armed with a rifle during these confrontations - never backed down and the Klan harassment eventually went away.
When the Klan organized a boycott of South of the Border, Schafer paid his employees in cash - both white and black employees - in $2 dollar denominations. When store owners in Dillon, Hamer and surrounding towns saw the influx of $2 dollar bills into their cash registers, they pressured Klansmen to stop the boycott of Schafer's business.
In the early 1960's, North Carolina had banned the sale of fireworks. Almost overnight, Schafer put up a fireworks stand at South of the Border. It quickly became the biggest seller of fireworks in the nation. It was said that South of the Border's three gas stations - Shell, Standard and Phillips 66 - each pumped more gas than any gas station along the Eastern seaboard. Schafer built an amusement park with a Civil War theme - Confederateland USA - that was more of a poke at the century old perceptions of the Old South. Confederateland U.S.A. didn't quite resonate with northern tourists and the amusement area was revamped to a more neutral theme by the early 70's.
In 1964, it was announced that Interstate 95 would parallel U.S. Highway 301 on its way through the Carolinas. And that wasn't a happy accident for Alan Schafer. His political clout pushed the interstate closer to South of the Border than original plans had it. Some local officials in North Carolina weren't too happy, but Schafer was able to convince planners that if they started the exit ramps just north of the border, North Carolina could develop land on their side of the interstate. Other than a gas station, a Waffle House and a small hotel, there has been little to no development on the North Carolina side of the border.
Once the interstate came through, Schaefer knew he needed a sign that people could see for a couple miles up and down Interstate 95. He built a 104-foot sign in the shape of a Mexican bandit with a large lighted sombrero on his head. It was said to be the largest neon sign east of the Mississippi River.
Later on, a second southbound exit ramp was put in on the South Carolina side of the border people who may have second thoughts about stopping at South of the Border after missing the first exit. The cloverleaf design curves around to the north, crossing back into North Carolina before hooking up with U.S. 301/501 to take people to the South of the Border entrances.
But it was almost impossible to NOT know that South of the Border was coming up x-amount of miles ahead of you on I-95. Schafer owned a billboard company that put up South of the Border ads from New York through North Carolina from the north, and from Florida up through South Carolina coming from the south. At one point, there were nearly 250 South of the Border billboards along I-95. (Billboard photo courtesy Roadside America.)
And many of them were politically incorrect by today's standards. Much of the wording was butchered Spanglish such as "When You're Hot, You're Hot! Cool Eet Weeth Pedro!", "Pedro No Shoots Ze Bool!" and "Too Mooch Tequila!". When the Mexican Embassy in Washington complained about the billboards, Schafer shot back with a reminder that he spent millions of dollars of trinkets and other goods from Mexico on an annual basis. The two parties came to an understanding that if the billboards were changed to be less offensive, Pedro could stay on as South of the Border's mascot.
The billboards were all from the mind of Alan Schafer. It was said that Schafer was a night owl who would sometimes sleep in his large office - the size of a gymnasium - with desks of drawings and designs in case he woke up with a clever saying in his head in the middle of the night. Of course Schafer preyed upon kids with billboards that said, "Keep Yelling Kids! (They'll Stop!)" But most were innocuous billboards with head-slapping/deep-groaning slogans such as "Chili Today - Hot Tamale", "Bear Up a Little Longer" (with a brown bear or polar bear on the sign), and "You Never Sausage A Place - You're Always a Weiner at Pedro's".
Going into the 70's, South of the Border had a barber shop, a drug store, a small amusement park, a go-kart track, a petting zoo, and even it's own post office with its own zip code. It was also when Schafer built a 200-foot tower with an elevator that took people up to a circular observation deck - shaped as a sombrero, naturally - to be able to take a look at the 300-acre empire that the irreverent Schafer had dubbed S.O.B. Soon there were more restaurants - a steak house, a cocktail lounge, a family restaurant, an ice cream parlor and, of course, a Mexican restaurant. Souvenir shops popped up on both sides of U.S. 301. There was a Mexico East shop (on the east side of U.S. 301) and a Mexico West shop (on the west side of the road).
As the 70's gave way to the 80's and into the 90's, Schafer encountered two problems - airline deregulation gave way to cheaper flights allowing travelers to leave their cars at the airport rather than driving to Florida; and the public's evolving sensibilities and notions on race put South of the Border in the crosshairs of activists who felt Schafer's empire was espousing racist perceptions. It was said that these charges hurt Schafer to his core as he felt that he was the last person who would be racist growing up as a Jew in the South, his friendships with blacks growing up, and with him hiring black people, as well as allowing black travelers - who were banned in most public places in the South - to eat in his restaurants, stay in his hotel, and to enjoy all the amusements and shopping South of the Border had to offer.
At one point in time, South of the Border employed 700 people - by far the largest employer in Dillon County. And instead of his employees being referred to as employees or workers, they were all called "Pedros" - it didn't matter if they were white, black, brown, whatever tone of their skin. Schafer once said that he remained politically incorrect at all times because it still wouldn't matter who complained - they still spent money at SOB.
For as active in local politics that Schafer was, it also got him in hot water. Long known as an activist within Democratic Party circles in South Carolina - he was instrumental in getting black voters registered in the 1950's, another reason Klansmen didn't like him - Schafer was caught up in a voting fraud scheme in the early 80's when he was in charge of the Dillon County Democrats. Schafer and 25 others pled guilty and 5 were convicted of selling votes and destroying absentee ballots during a primary election for Dillon County Sheriff. Schafer was sentenced to 42 months in federal prison and was released after about a year. His active involvement in politics ended after he got out of jail.
Even into his late 70's, Schafer knew how to push the buttons of the locals and so-called detractors of South of the Border. He put in a soft-porn shop and called it "The Dirty Old Man Store". He put in a store that sold African artifacts, curios and novelties angering some who said many of the items sold were not authentic and depicted the days of European colonization in Africa. And because of a legal loophole in South Carolina's gaming laws, Schafer built a casino on his land and placed more than 400 video games in the building.
The casino got Schafer in hot water with South Carolina officials who - after a protracted fight with Schafer and other gambling advocates - were able to get a referendum vote passed to close the gambling loophole. Schafer still fought the referendum, but was his motions were struck down by the South Carolina Supreme Court who ordered that Schafer immediately close his casino. However, Schafer kept the casino open for a time before officials charged the South of the Border corporation with illegal gambling and fined the company millions of dollars. Schafter was forced to close the casino throwing 200 people out of a job.
Through all of this, however, Schafer was a philanthropist. Through the Schafer Foundation, the Schafer family has given millions to local organizations, churches and associations - some of whom vocally deplored Schafer's business practices over the years. Since it incorporated in 1961, the Schafer Foundation has helped finance hospitals, schools, fire and police departments, the arts, food banks and has donated to parks and recreational facilities, as well as children's organizations in and around Dillon County.
And Schafer never forgot his roots and one of his last opportunities in life was to keep his favorite soft drink brand from going out of business. Blenheim Ginger Ale was a South Carolina-based soft drink company that Schafer enjoyed in his youth. When the company came upon hard times in the early 1990's, Schafer was determined to keep the company afloat. He bought Blenheim in 1995 and repurposed one of the buildings near his office on the grounds at South of the Border to a bottling facility. Blenheim Ginger Ale has now been in existence for over 120 years and the Schafer family continues to run the business to this day.
That was probably the last big thing Alan Schafer did in his illustrious and colorful career as a businessman. With declining health and his son Richard taking over more of the day to day operations he had sold Schafer Distribution a few years prior, Alan Schafer began to wind down. After battling leukemia for a number of years, Alan Schafer passed away in July of 2001 at the age of 87.
Robert Schafer and his son Ryan kept a number of the attractions at South of the Border, but revamped or added a few things over the next few years. Robert Schafer added a car lot and a car repair shop to South of the Border, they put in an RV park for campers to use as they traveled down I-95, a full truck stop with diesel pumps only, and they consolidated their gas stations into two stations - one on each side of U.S. 301. Ryan Schafer - who runs the operation today - was an avid motocross rider and he put in a training facility with two competitive race courses and five training courses on the grounds of South of the Border. Keeping the sense of humor that his grandfather possessed, Ryan Schafer called the facility SOBMX - South of the Border Motocross.
The Schafers have toned down South of the Border over the past 20-plus years. There's still the tower, the amusement park and a reptile exhibit that is touted as the largest in the United States. And there's a revamped lounge, but the steakhouse, Mexican restaurant, and family restaurant are all still there. The gift shops - including the Myrtle Beach Shop which caters to people heading to the beach (pictured at right) - are still in operation. There's a motocross store that sells motorcycles and motocross accessories near SOBMX.
I pulled into South of the Border just before noon. Well, actually I drove by slowly on U.S. Highway 301/501 looking at everything and just trying to fathom what I was seeing. I drove down the road a ways before coming to one of South of the Border's billboards that basically said, "Whoa, dude! Turn around! You missed it!"
I really didn't have a lot of time to dig deep into South of the Border as I had an appointment in Orangeburg, SC scheduled for 2 p.m. and I was still an hour and 45 minutes from there. I made my way back up the road to the Sunoco gas station on the east side of Highway 301/501 with a palmetto tree - the state tree of South Carolina - right between the road and the gas station.
When I pulled into the gas pumps, I saw just how close the state line with North Carolina was. This is a picture of the black-topped county road off of U.S. 301/501 where the texture of the pavement changes at the North Carolina border. It was just a couple hundred feet from where I was gassing up my car.
I still had about 3/8's of a tank when I stopped at SOB to get gas, and it turned out that I probably should have waited. As I drove further south into South Carolina, I found gas station billboards touting their prices and they were all at least 20 cents a gallon cheaper. I just shook my head thinking that South of the Border took more money than I expected to spend there. But, then again, they've been doing that to tourists and travelers for nearly 75 years.
And after I filled up my tank, I didn't get a receipt. An electronic note on the self-serve pump said that I needed to go into the building to get a receipt. There was a small nondescript outbuilding near the road, then there was a building that was one of the souvenir shops. I drove over to the souvenir shop and went inside to get my gas receipt. And it was packed with, well, tourist crap. I didn't want to look around, so I just went to the counter and asked the somewhat portly lady with a thick Southern accent for my receipt. "Oh, hon," she said with that syrupy Southern drawl. "You get the gas receipts out there," pointing to the small nondescript building by the roadway. (I like how Southern people can take a one syllable word and turn it into two syllables - "Ge-yet" "Ga-yas" "They-yer".)
As you can tell, I'm not into tourist attractions, but I would have liked to have spent some more time just looking around at what South of the Border had to offer. From the outside, it appeared to be schlocky, cheap and somewhat trashy. Places like South of the Border have fallen by the wayside in recent years with the rise of mega-stops like Buc-ee's which cater to both truckers and regular travelers without the sensory overload that one can get from a place like South of the Border. And with a less offensive mascot (for some). I'm sure I'll be passing by South of the Border sometime later this year on another trip down to the Carolinas, but I'm not certain I'll stop in. I'll probably hurt my neck shaking my head looking at all the stuff they have for sale in their gift shops.