I was in Evanston, IL checking in with an old account I had worked with a number of years ago and it was around 1:30 in the afternoon when I was finished up with my visit. I was looking for a brewpub to have lunch at and I was heading toward Double Clutch Brewing Company north and west of downtown Evanston when I was at a stop sign. Looking to my right, I saw a sign that said, "Soul & Smoke". The semi-vine covered brick building looked like it was in a state of flux with a series of somewhat crudely drawn arrow signs showing the way to an entrance. Somewhat intrigued, I turned the corner and followed the signs. It turned out it was a barbecue joint! Man - barbecue sounded good to me! I took a right turn and parked on the street next to Soul & Smoke.
D'Andre Carter's life while a young boy on the south side of Chicago seemed to evolve around cooking. He could always remember his grandmother and mother cooking - his grandmother taught him how to make peach cobbler in her kitchen. Cooking was a big deal in Carter's family, but it was a full-family celebration when they would get together to barbecue in his grandmother's back yard on Sunday. Carter was the oldest grandchild and he was tasked with helping with the barbecue and in his grandmother's kitchen.
Carter enjoyed helping in the kitchen so much while growing up, it was almost a given that he decided to go to culinary school. After graduating from the (now-closed) Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in 2008, Carter entered the professional chef world as a cook for Blue Plate Catering, an events company in Chicago. While at Blue Plate Catering, he got a job as an intern at Moto, an upscale restaurant in Chicago's Fulton Market District. Moto was famous for their avant garde and scientific approach to food preparation where the chefs would use centrifuges, Class IV lasers, and liquid nitrogen for flash freezing some foods.
After a short time at Moto, Carter was elevated to a sous chef and one of the chef's he worked with was Heather Bublick. The two hit it off and soon they were a couple. Bublick left Moto in 2010 to become a sommelier at Tru, a French-style restaurant in Chicago's Streeterville neighborhood run by Rich Melman's Lettuce Entertain You restaurant group.
Pictured right - D'Andre Carter and Heather Bublick. Photo courtesy Chicago Tribune.
The two had many conversations about opening their own restaurant over a long period of time before they decided to jump ship from their respective restaurants in December of 2012 and do their own thing.
The couple figured that at some point they'd own their own restaurant. But they really didn't know what kind of restaurant. In the meantime, they began to cater small pop-up dinner parties at their home and at homes of people they knew around Chicago. On the strength of these pop-up dinners, people began to ask Carter and Bublick to cater events. In 2013, Carter and Bublick opened Feast & Imbibe, a catering company that focused on weddings, parties, corporate events and other gatherings. To help the couple out, they hired friends and family members to give them a hand in the kitchen and serving the food.
But Carter remembered how much of a celebration it was when his family would barbecue and he wanted to incorporate barbecue into the mix at Feast & Imbibe. In 2015, the couple created Soul & Smoke as a more casual alternative to the mixed tasting plates they would do for Feast & Imbibe.
Just as he did with the menu at Feast & Imbibe, Carter drilled down to the smallest detail in coming up with rubs, side dishes and cooking techniques - even trying a number of different types of smokers before he settled upon using a Cookshack smoker. But Soul & Smoke took a backseat to Feast & Imbibe for five years before a couple big things happened in Carter and Bublick's life.
In February of 2020, the couple purchased an old bus depot in a small industrial area in Evanston. The building was about 100 years old and needed some serious upgrading. They had a room in the front of the building that they could use for an event space, but much of the building was without flooring, electrical or HVAC. Then in March of 2020 - of course - the pandemic hit.
And because they had so much food for upcoming catering events, they had to do something with it. On March 17 of 2020, Feast & Imbibe offered 40 free meals from their carry-out window - no fee requested. Then when a shelter-in-place order was given less than a week later, Carter and Bublick began to deliver meals to those in need. Less than a month later, the couple was delivering up to 300 meals a day, mainly through a non-profit community emergency food-relief organization that was helping feed the homeless and unemployed during the pandemic.
In the meantime, Soul & Smoke had opened a pick-up window at their building allowing people to get barbecue to go. In the summer of 2020 when the pandemic was gradually lifting, Carter and Bublick bought a food truck and would take it to neighborhoods for pop-up events.
Word of mouth on Carter's barbecue began to run rampant throughout the greater Chicagoland area. In 2021, Carter and Bublick opened a ghost kitchen on Spaulding Ave. in Chicago for to-go orders only and using Uber Eats and DoorDash to reach more people that way. In 2022, the couple opened their first sit-down restaurant in the Rockwell-on-the-River event center in Chicago's Avondale neighborhood partnering with (the now-closed) Metropolitan Brewing, Judson & Moore Distillery, and Metropolis Coffee Company. A Soul & Smoke counter opened not long after that at Soldier Field, while a location in the Accenture Tower in Chicago's West Loop opened earlier this year.
The Evanston location (see map) was "sort of" a sit down venue when I was there. There were some picnic tables outside along the sidewalk and the street. A pick-up box for free meals was located near the front door of the facility. A colorful awning hung over the door on the side of the building with the slogan "Keep it Saucy & Soulful" on the bottom of the awning.
Inside the building, there was a long, narrow dining area with picnic tables on artificial turf. With racks and containers along one wall, it sort of looked like it was a storage area with some picnic tables - sort of something like what a break room would look like for a grocery store or a big box store. But in the same vein, it was sort of homey and welcoming.
It's counter service at Soul & Smoke and I was met by a guy by the name of Greg who asked if I had a to-go order. I said, "Umm... No, I was driving by and wanted to stop in to get some lunch. Can I eat here?"
Greg said, "Oh, yes! By all means!" He handed me a menu to look through. A couple other people were milling about behind the counter and I later realized that one of them was Heather Bublick.
The smoked meat selections at Soul & Smoke was almost overwhelming. They had prime brisket, pastrami, spare ribs, 'Nduja (andouille) sausage, pork rib tips, and smoked jalapeño/cheddar sausage links. They also had down-home soul food including smoked chicken gumbo, grilled wings, Cajun shrimp and grits, and grilled jerk chicken. Pulled pork and smoked brisket sandwiches were on the menu, and well as sides which included cornbread, sweet potatoes, grits, red beans and rice, apple slaw, and - for an upcharge - collard greens. This turned out to be a promising experience!
While I was looking through the menu, a couple people came in to pick up to-go orders. All the while I was there, there was a steady presence of people picking up to-go orders or waiting to get their orders they had placed earlier. I was going to be the only one eating in at Soul & Smoke and I was fine with that.
Once I was able to get back to the counter to place an order, I ordered up the half-pound prime brisket. For my side I ordered the dirty rice. "Great choice," Greg said after I ordered the side dish. They had a few craft beers available and I ordered up an Insufficient Clearance hazy IPA from the Sketchbook Brewing Company in Evanston.
When I placed my order, Greg explained that they no longer take tips at Soul & Smoke, but they do add an 8% service charge for counter orders. He said that instead of tips, they just redistribute the service fees to all the employees at the restaurant whether they work in catering or back in the smokers. He said that he would waive the fee for first time customers, but I told him that wasn't necessary.
After taking a seat at a picnic table, it was about 10 minutes when someone from the back brought out a small cooking sheet with wax paper with paper boats of the prime brisket and the dirty rice on it. Greg wanted to know if I wanted fatty or lean brisket when I ordered and I asked him if I could get both. "That's no problem," he said enthusiastically. The brisket had a nice bark on the outside and a visible smoke ring around the edges.
And the brisket was delicious. It didn't take much to cut into it as it was very tender. The smoky flavor wasn't overpowering and the spices used on the outside gave the bark a great taste. The brisket was outstanding.
The dirty rice was also very good. It had chunks of meat - don't know if it was pork or brisket - mixed in with it. I hadn't had dirty rice for quite some time and I'm glad I got the dirty rice from Soul & Smoke.
For sauces, they had a wide variety of five different sauces. The original sauce that D'Andre Carter came up with years ago is a medium-thick tomato-based sauce that had a complex flavor to it. Carter uses 22 different types of artisanal ingredients in his original sauce that gives it a somewhat sweet and citrusy taste with a bit of a spicy back end. I used that sauce mainly because I wasn't keen on some of the other sauces including a North Carolina vinegar-style sauce that would have been good on pulled pork. Soul & Smoke had a bold mustard-based sauce made with pineapple juice and chopped jalapeños; a Jamaican jerk sauce made with citrus juice, soy sauce, chili peppers and spices that would have gone well with some of their smoked or grilled chicken offerings; an a spicy and tangy version of a Buffalo wing sauce.
But, quite honestly, the brisket was great on its own. I didn't use much barbecue sauce and I would have liked to have had some Tabasco or Louisiana Hot Sauce to put on the dirty rice. But that really wasn't needed, either.
For stumbling on to Soul & Smoke, I'd have to say I was a pretty lucky guy. While their temporary space inside their soon to be revamped building in Evanston was sort of strangely fun to eat in, I can't wait to see what they're going to have when they get up and going full bore with their barbecue restaurant. The brisket I had was outstanding as was the dirty rice that I had as a side. They have so many different types of barbecue on the menu, as well as a large number of sides to choose from, I can't wait to get back to sample some of their barbecue once they get their space revamped. Then again, I like Soul & Smoke so much that I may have to get back there before their remodeling is finished!