It had been awhile since I was up in Green Bay and quite sometime since I'd spent the night there. Most of my previous visits have been day trips up from Milwaukee and back again. But this time I had a morning meeting set up with my account up there and I spent the night before near Lambeau Field. Since it had been a while since I had been around Lambeau Field, I found that they had really built up an area just west of the stadium into a mixed use area for residential, commercial and a large entertainment area - especially for before and after football games. The cornerstone of the complex was a restaurant with a brewery that I had been familiar with for quite sometime. I went in to have dinner at Hinterland Brewing.
Bill Tressler thought he was going to end up being a journalist. He had graduated from Creighton with a degree in journalism, and along with his new wife Michelle they headed to San Francisco after Bill landed a job as an assistant editor on the city desk at the San Francisco Chronicle. But Tressler also had a couple of other passions - music (he was a drummer in a band) and craft beer.
Not long after he started at the Chronicle, the paper went on strike. Needing a job pretty quickly, Tressler took a job as an editor at a magazine that focused on the burgeoning phenomena of craft brewing. Although he was a home brewer, Tressler found that he didn't know much about the full process of commercially brewed beer. Looking to learn more about brewing craft beer, he enrolled in the extension program on intensive brewing science for practical brewing at the University of Calfornia-Davis.
Tressler jumped feet first into the course work and immersed himself about all things brewing beers. After he had completed the extension courses, Dr. Michael Lewis, a well-renown professor who started UC-Davis' brewing program in the early 60's, had started a new school called the American Brewers Guild. Tressler enrolled in the brewing science and engineering program at the school and after he graduated he decided that he wanted to have his own brewery.
Pictured right - Michelle and Bill Tressler. Photo courtesy Hinterland Brewing Facebook page.
In 1995, Michelle and Bill moved back to their hometown of Green Bay and bought a small building outside of Denmark, WI that had been a cheese factory. With limited funds, hard work and a drive to produce some of the best beer available, the Tresslers established Hinterland Brewing. They named it Hinterland because of all the trips across country they made in their Volkswagen van while Bill was drumming in a band.
1999 was a crucial year in the craft beer movement. There had been a significant number of craft breweries that had popped up over the previous 8 years and there was a lot of price pressure on the small brewers to maintain low prices on six pack bottles. Hinterland had outgrown their small 7 barrel facility outside of Green Bay and moved into a new facility with a tap room in downtown Green Bay in 2000. Even though they had their own bottling facility, they could not compete with other craft breweries who were selling beer at $4.99 to $5.99 a six pack. Tressler decided to go to draft beer only effectively shutting down his bottle line making Hinterland's beer available only in their tap room. It turned out to be a good decision as a number of the small breweries trying to keep up with larger, more established breweries with low priced beers went out of business.
Hinterland hung in there and when craft breweries started to go to $7.99 a six-pack, Tressler felt that he could compete with six-pack bottles of his own. The only problem is that they had sold off their small bottling operation and had to contract with another brewer to bottle Hinterland beers. That turned out to be a disaster, so Tressler went out and got a new bottling line for his brewery. Not only did Hinterland grow their business in the early years of the 21st century, they also grew their distribution network. By 2015, Hinterland was distributed in 10 states.
Also in 2015, the Green Bay Packers announced they were developing a mixed-use entertainment, commercial and residential space across the street from Lambeau Field that would be named the Titletown District. It would have a hotel, restaurants, bars, office space and a large park that would be both a combination walking mall/playground and a regulation size football field complete with artificial turf. The goal was to have the first phase of the project finished by the start of the 2017 season.
The Tresslers saw a great opportunity to grow the Hinterland brand even more by signing on to be a large component of the Titletown District. The 24,000 square foot facility nearly quadrupled their brewing capacity from 5,500 barrels annually at their downtown brewery to 20,000 barrels of beer (at the new facility near Lambeau Field). The new Hinterland brewery also had a taproom/beer hall and a restaurant, as well as two private dining/entertainment rooms, and a heated outdoor beer garden. Ground was broke for the facility in the spring of 2016 and Hinterland moved into their new digs in April of 2017.
A good friend of mine who died unexpectedly in 2016 was a huge Green Bay Packers fan and Hinterland beer was one of his favorites. Green Bay was part of his territory for a handful of years and he loved coming to the city and hanging out at a bar drinking Hinterland beer. It was only natural for me to head to Hinterland that evening as I think of him often when I get up to Green Bay and to drink a beer in his honor and memory.
Hinterland is located just across the street from Lambeau Field and is located near the corner of S Ridge Road and Lombardi Avenue. (see map) Titletown has a large courtyard behind it that opens into a regulation size football field, a playground, an outdoor gaming area and - in the winter - a skating rink and a tubing hill. The man-made hill and slope is a built on a three-story building that has a restaurant/bar - 46 Below - on the first level and an event center on the second level. The Titletown commons area is packed before and after Packers games.
Inside Hinterland Brewing, their brewing facility is visible behind a large glass window. Tours of the brewery are available on Saturdays starting at noon. Above the brewing facility was a party area that hosted parties and events. There was something going on up there the night I was there and there were a lot of people heading up and down the steps while I was there.
The large great room that houses the main beer hall features wood-burning fireplaces at each end. Full-bodied deer mounts and moose head mounts were part of the decorations on or near the fireplaces. Small tables and comfy chairs were near the hearths on either end of the dining room.
The beer hall featured a combination of brick and glass walls with an angled ceiling. It was large, yet the reduced lighting in the room gave it a cozy feel.
I ended up seated at the bar planting myself in front of one of the two flatscreen televisions showing a basketball game that evening. There were three bartenders working that evening although it wasn't all that busy in the brewpub area. The kitchen for the restaurant was located directly behind the main floor bar.
One of the bartenders, a young lady who went by the name of Koko, came over to greet me and drop off both a food menu and a beer menu. There was a lady who was seated to my right and she immediately said, "You really need to try the maple bock beer!" After I told her that I'm not into either dark or sweet beers, she said, "I don't either, but it's great!"
Not taking her recommendation, I saw some interesting beers and I asked for a taste of the Jamaican Haze - a seasonal New England-style hazy IPA; as well as a taste of their year-round Saving Gracie hazy IPA, and another seasonal Citrus haze they had that evening. After trying a taste of all three, I settled on the Jamaican Haze. I gave Koko my credit card to hold as I started a tab for food and beer at that point.
The menu at Hinterland Brewing features a number of sustainably and locally grown items that can cause the menu to change from day-to-day depending upon availability. Seafood is flown in on a regular basis from both the Pacific Northwest and New England, as well as from Honolulu. Hinterland supports local farmers and specialty artisans from across northeastern Wisconsin supplying the restaurant from everything from beef, pork and poultry, heirloom vegetables and hand-foraged mushrooms to artisan breads and cheese.
The food menu at Hinterland wasn't all that big, but it did have some interesting items to choose from. Wood-fired oyster mushrooms, garlic & lemon hummus with olives and garlic naan bread, and a smoked-salmon spread were all things off the appetizer part of the menu that caught my eye. They had a tuna poké bowl as part of the salad offerings, and wood-fired pizzas were available as well. The steakhouse burger featured Hook's white cheddar cheese and Nueske's bacon on it. And they had a handful of main entrees including a wood-fired halibut, a wood-fired grill ribeye, and beef short ribs braised in the maple bock beer the lady seated next to me early on had raved about.
But I saw something else on the menu that made my stomach do jumping jacks - the prime beef and foraged mushrooms stroganoff. It came with wide egg noodles and a brown beef gravy. I was ready to order, but Koko was nowhere in sight. I noticed that she had been conversing with a guy three seats down from me, but when that guy paid his bill and left, Koko disappeared. I had to get the attention of one of the other bartenders to take my order.
The only problem was that he came back to me moments later and said, "We're out of the beef stroganoff. Just sold out." I groaned noticeably as he handed me a food menu to look over. I didn't want the burger, and I wasn't going to get a pizza. I sort of shrugged my shoulders and ordered up the braised beef.
And I have to say that it wasn't a bad second choice. It came on a bed of smashed garlic potatoes with a medley of braised carrot slices and green beans. It was covered in a mushroom gravy - possibly the same gravy they had for the stroganoff. The beef was tender and pulled apart very easily. The mushroom gravy was rich in taste and went extremely well with the braised beef. While it wasn't what I originally wanted, my appetite was sated with this dish.
After I finished up dinner, one of the bartenders - Koko was still missing-in-action - came over to clear my plate. He asked me if I wanted any dessert that evening. I asked what they had to offer and he said that they had a pumpkin cheesecake. Oooo... That sounded really good. So I told the bartender that I'd take a slice of that. He acknowledged my order when he took away my plate.
The only problem was that he forgot to put the order in. And it was a good 15 minutes before the other bartender came over and asked me if I wanted another beer. I said, "Well, I had ordered a piece of the pumpkin cheesecake from your partner behind the bar and I haven't seen it."
The other bartender was in earshot from our conversation and when he heard me say that, he said, "Oh, shoot! I forgot to put that in!" I told him that I no longer wanted it and to just give me my check.
When he handed me the check, he sort of stood there waiting for me to throw the credit card on top of the receipt. Only I didn't have my credit card. I told him that my card was behind the bar somewhere, that I had given it to the girl to start my tab and she never gave it back. "And she's been missing-in-action for the past hour or so," I said sort of in a snarky manner. I didn't care, I was half-way pissed off at the service at this point.
It became panic mode behind the bar as the two bartenders searched for my credit card. Finally, one of them found it next to the cash register at the far end of the bar. They ran my card and gave me my check and I got out of there.
Other than the poor service I received from the 3 bartenders - well, really the two bartenders after the first one ran off - my experience at Hinterland Brewing was positive. The food was excellent, I really liked the Jamaican Haze hazy IPA that I got (I even rebuffed efforts by a fellow diner on her recommendation of the maple bock), and the atmosphere - for a beer hall-type of establishment - was warm and cozy. It wasn't all that busy that night so I can't figure why the service was so bad. But everything else about my visit to Hinterland Brewing more than made up for the poor service.