During my trip out to California earlier this summer, I was hoping to get together with a friend in Manhattan Beach for dinner the night before I was going to fly back home. However, he had a family obligation that evening so we weren't able to get together. Since I was already in the area, I asked him if he could recommend a place that I should go to for dinner. "Knowing you, I've got the perfect place for you," he said. "It's a great little dive bar near the pier called Shellback Tavern." He was adamant that it was my kind of place. With that, I took off to find the Shellback Tavern and check it out.
In 1922, the great, great granddaughter of classical composer Johann Sebastian Bach opened Bach's Cafe and Bakery in a small building along the beach in what was just known at Manhattan, CA at the time. (It became Manhattan Beach in 1927.) Just after World War II, it became a bar - The Knothole. The Knothole later became the Surf as a nod to the burgeoning surf culture in Southern California in the late 50's into the early 60's. A few years later, the Surf morphed into the Shellback which eventually became the Shellback Surf Tavern. By the turn of the 21st century, the bar/restaurant was known simply as the Shellback Tavern. It was in 2003 that the iconic Manhattan Beach bar was in financial trouble and was in jeopardy of closing down. This is where Bob Beverly came to the rescue.
Bob Beverly owned a sports bar in Manhattan Beach and came from local political royalty. His father, Robert Beverly, was the former mayor of Manhattan Beach and later became a California Assembly representative for Manhattan Beach, then a California State senator. Bob Beverly sold his interest in Grunions Sports Bar to bail out the Shellback Tavern. For the past nearly 20 years, Bob has been at the helm of the funky little surf tavern just steps from the Pacific Ocean.
Pictured right - Bob Beverly. Photo courtesy Easy Reader News.
The weather in Southern California had been dicey all week long. Cool temps, off and on rain, and brisk winds coming off the ocean had been the antithesis of what one would think weather in Southern California would be in the early summer. But the weather on Friday afternoon had gotten somewhat nicer, although it was cooler at the ocean front. I drove into downtown Manhattan Beach - which has become one of my more favorite Pacific Ocean towns - and found a parking space on Manhattan Beach Blvd.
I walked down toward the beach passing a number of restaurants and watering holes. Some of them looked pretty interesting and I stopped into one place to have a beer. I contemplated staying at the bar because they had a great beer selection and an interesting menu. But my buddy told me that I had to get to the Shellback Tavern.
The Shellback Tavern is located at the corner of Manhattan Beach Blvd. and Ocean Dr. (see map) It was around 6 p.m. and the Friday evening/end-of-the-week crowd had packed the place. It would definitely fit in my category of what makes a dive bar. It was a cacophony of noise in the small place with no seats open at any table. I figured this was an "eat-at-the-bar" kind of place anyhow. Classic rock was playing on the sound system and I got a large kick when the women in the bar were loudly singing along with the Toto song "Africa".
The only problem is that the bar was also packed. I found a spot at the far end of the short bar - literally the last seat available in the place - and I took it. The bar had a few flatscreen televisions on the wall along with a lot of colorful signage. Also colorful were the dozens of Shellback Tavern hats that hung from a line directly above the bar. I guess the hats are extremely popular, but I didn't pick one up.
One of the bartenders came over with a menu for me to look over. After ordering a beer - the Hazy A.F. from the Hermosa Brewing Company just a couple miles down the beach in Hermosa Beach - I got up to use the restroom. Directly behind me was a window that looked out across Ocean Drive to a parking lot with the beach and ocean just beyond. While it was cool out, the sun felt good and I made a plan to walk out onto the pier after finishing my meal.
The menu was your typical bar fare - lots of appetizers, burgers, grilled chicken sandwiches, wraps and salads. They also had tacos, chicken tenders, and various sandwiches such as a BLT, a tuna salad sandwich, and a roast beef dip sandwich topped with Swiss cheese and green chiles.
At this point during my trip, I was in a complete and utter food funk. Really, nothing sounded good to me and I contemplated drinking my beer and heading back up the street to the first bar I had stopped at. But something on the menu kept popping out at me.
I ended up getting the grilled mahi mahi tacos. The tacos were small but loaded with chunks of lightly grilled mahi mahi, shredded cabbage, chopped tomatoes, diced red onions and green chiles on 4 corn taco shells. (The menu said that it was 3 to an order, but I got 4.) And I have to say that they were very good. They were light and not all that filling. They were fine, nothing great and not the best I've had. But having grilled fish tacos at a place just steps from the beach was a definite plus that evening.
As I was eating my tacos, a tall guy came over to my side and was taking with the bartender. The bartender said, "Hey, man! I got some Busch Light for you!" That immediately got my interest. Not so much for the quality of the beer he ordered, but THE beer he ordered.
After I finished my meal and went to the restroom once again, the guy was standing by himself a couple three steps behind where I was seated. He was tall - at least 6'8" - and looked athletic. He had a long elastic knee brace on one of his legs. I went up to him and I asked, "So, where in Iowa are you from?"
He was kind of taken aback and said, "I'm not from Iowa, but I'm from somewhere close to Iowa." He wanted to know why I thought he was from Iowa. I explained to him that Busch Light was, in effect, the state beer of Iowa due to its popularity in my home state.
"No, I'm from the western suburbs of Chicago and I went to college in Wisconsin," he told me. He was, indeed, a basketball player during his college years at a small Wisconsin college. We talked for a bit and he told me that he actually worked for a company in Carroll, IA and was back there two or three times a year. "The drive from the Omaha airport to Carroll can be a bitch," he told me. I told him that I had made that trip a number of times in the past and agreed that driving along Highway 30 to Carroll could be tedious at times. It was sort of fun to connect with a former Midwesterner at the Shellback Tavern.
After settling up at the tavern, I wanted to walk out onto the Manhattan Beach Pier to enjoy some of the salt air and take in a bit of California on my last night there. The clouds had thinned out above the ocean, but inland it was still a bit cloudy and somewhat dreary. The wind coming off the ocean was cool and the temperature was in the upper 60's. Yet, there were people swimming in the ocean and a lot of people were milling along the beach. The cool temps didn't seem to affect them. I have to admit I was somewhat chilled when I walked off the pier.
My visit to the Shellback Tavern was interesting. It had a funky party vibe to the place, a loud and active Friday evening crowd blowing off steam from a week of work. They had a pretty good selection of beers and while their food menu was basically bar food fare, the mahi mahi tacos were good for what they were. I'm really warming up to Manhattan Beach and am somewhat jealous that my buddy lives there. The Shellback Tavern would probably be the kind of place that I'd like to hang out at if I lived in the area.