I've found that virtually any big city I've traveled to over the past couple of years has a Chicago-style pizza place where ex-pats or former visitors to the Windy City can enjoy either deep-dish or tavern-style pizza. I prefer a good thin-crust tavern-style pizza to a wood-fired Neapolitan pizza, so I'm always on the lookout for the places that serve a good Chicago tavern-style pizza. It turned out that there was a place not too far from where I was staying that offered a thin-crust tavern pizza. I ended up going to D.L. Mack's in north Dallas.
Hunter Pond grew up in the toney Highland Park neighborhood in Dallas. At first glance, people who know the Dallas area would automatically surmise that Pond came from money, but his parents were far from wealthy, both working jobs to provide for the family and for Hunter's college education. They were able to send Hunter off to Texas Tech University to study entrepreneurship and business. He graduated from Texas Tech in 2009 and was planning on being a lawyer.
However, Pond found that law school wasn't for him and he ended up dropping out and moving back home to Dallas. His parents weren't too whippy about his decision to forego law school given the financial sacrifices they had endured to send him to college, and they told him he had to find a job to tide him over. He became a dishwasher at Eno's Pizza Tavern and it looked like his life was going nowhere. But what a lot of people didn't know was that Pond was working on a business plan for a sandwich deli that sold made-from-scratch foods.
Even though his family wasn't as well-heeled as some of his classmate's families were while growing up in Highland Park, he had made a number of connections with people he knew while growing up in the neighborhood. When it came time to raise money for his restaurant idea, Pond turned to those numerous connections to help him raise money for his venture. It must have worked as he was able to raise the $400,000 needed to start his business. In 2012 at the age of 24, Pond - along with his business partner Kyle Brooks - opened the first East Hampton Sandwich Co. in Snider Plaza in Dallas.
From there, Pond and Brooks started a corporation - Vandelay Hospitality Group - to oversee the operations at his slowly growing chain of upscale deli's. Not everything Pond did was right - he had to close a couple of underperforming East Hampton Sandwich Company locations, and he had a couple unfavorable leases that he had to try to renegotiate as time went on. But by 2019, there were nine East Hampton Sandwich Co. locations in and around the great Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex. However, after the pandemic, Vandelay Hospitality Group pared the number of East Hampton Sandwich Co. down to just three locations.
In 2017, the Vandelay Hospitality Group founded Hudson House billed as an East Coast comfort food restaurant that focused on burgers, sandwiches, and oysters on-the-half shell. Hudson House now has three locations in Dallas, Houston and in Beverly Hills. Other Vandelay Hospitality Group restaurants include Drake's Hollywood - an L.A.-inspired steakhouse that Pond was taken with some of the old SoCal steakhouses he visited on trips to Los Angeles; as well as Dallas area restaurants Brentwood, Anchor Sushi Bar, and Jack & Harry's.
During the height of the pandemic, Pond and the Vandelay Hospitality Group came up with a new concept - bringing Chicago to Dallas in terms of Chicago-style pizza served in a space that sported reclaimed antique bricks from a Chicago building that had been built in the mid-19th century. Reclaimed tin ceiling tiles along with reclaimed wall tiles that were originally in the Chicago Civic Center (now the Richard J. Daley Center) went along with reclaimed wooden floor planks that were first used in buildings built in the early 19th century. Local Chicago touches such as archived photos of famous Chicago sports figures, along with benches on the outside patio that were inspired by the main terminal of the Chicago Transit Authority. D.L. Mack's on Hillcrest Street in University Heights.
A second D.L. Mack's opened in November of 2022 in the Preston Oaks shopping mall at the corner of Preston Road and Royal Lane on the north side of Dallas. This was the location I went to as it was just about a 10 minute drive from my hotel in Addison down the Dallas North Tollway to Royal Lane. (see map) There turned out to be plenty of parking in the lot of the shopping mall lot - even for a Saturday night.
Quite actually, I didn't really know what to expect before I walked into D.L. Mack's, but I have to say that I was somewhat taken aback at how elegant the place was. I immediately thought, "Wow! This is a pizza joint? It looks more like an upscale steakhouse like you'd find in downtown Chicago!"
Cream-colored slat walls with Chicago-centric pictures were on one end of the dining area, while the room was full of mahogany booths with leather-padded seating. Dark wood-slat window coverings, brick columns and trim, along with off-white antique tin-ceiling tiles gave the room a cozy, yet elegant atmosphere. The place was nearly full when I walked in and by the time I left there was a wait to get seats.
The L-shaped bar was equally elegant with a dark wood top, wide padded stools and an ornate back bar. Dark wood slatted ceiling with light fixtures hung over the bar. The bar was also nearly full when I walked in to D.L. Mack's.
I was able to get a seat on the short side of the bar closest to the front door. There were three bartenders working that night and the guy who took care of me for the evening was Joshua. He handed me a menu and asked me what I'd like to drink. I asked if they had any hazy IPA's and he said, "We have the Manhattan Project (Half-Life) hazy." I gave him two thumbs up for that.
The menu's main focus was the Chicago-style tavern pizza, but being that they call themselves a "true Chicago tavern", D.L. Mack's also features appetizers such as deviled eggs, mozzarella bites, and a spinach artichoke dip. Salads included a Caesar and a Greek salad, and they had handhelds such as a cheeseburger, a tuna melt on sourdough bread, and a spicy Italian grinder with pistachio mortadella, pepperoni, genoa salami, smoked provolone, and a spicy giardiniera. Entrees included cheese-filled tortellini in a marinara sauce, a chicken parm dish, Asian-glazed grilled salmon, and Greek chicken with peppers and mashed potatoes.
But I was there for the pizza and I ordered my usual sausage, pepperoni and mushroom pie. When I ordered, Joshua asked, "You want me to bring out some fries with that?" I thought that was an odd question, given that I don't think I've EVER ordered fries with pizza. I declined on the fries.
However, a while later, a couple sat down next to me and ordered a pizza. Joshua asked the same question, "You guys want me to bring some fries out for you?"
The couple sort of looked at one another, and the man said, "Yeah! We'll take some fries!" I laughed and thought to myself, "Suggestive selling at its finest!" But I have to say the fries - on their own - looked pretty good. Maybe D.L. Mack's is known for their fries.
Moments before the pizza came out, one of the other bartenders came over with a metal pizza stand, similar to ones that we see in pizza joints in Chicago. Moments later, the pizza came out. It was about 12 to 14 inches in size and featured large chunks of fennel sausage, ample amounts of spicy and salty pepperoni, and a fair amount of fresh mushrooms on the top. The mushrooms were also sort of chunky in their size. Parmesan cheese and red pepper flakes were also provided along with the pizza.
After letting it cool down for a bit, I was able to take the first bite. The crust was thin and crispy, and it didn't sag with all the toppings on each little square or triangle - the hallmark of a true Chicago tavern-style pizza. The fennel sausage was bursting with flavor, the mushrooms were fresh and earthy, and the pepperoni was cupped from the cooking process. It was a fabulous pizza. Did it taste good with beer? Oh, yeah - it certainly did!
Finding Chicago tavern-style pizza outside of Chicago is sometimes difficult to do. But I'm starting to see more and more of these types of pizza places in my travels. It's not that I don't like a good Neapolitan wood-fired pizza from time-to-time, it's just that I like that crunchy thin crust with ample toppings on my pizza. And the one at D.L. Mack's was superb. My only quibble was the price - it was $26 bucks for the pizza. Just a base pizza with mozzarella and sauce at D.L. Mack's is $16, but you add Italian sausage ($5), pepperoni ($3), and mushrooms ($2), it adds up quick. The sticker shock was the only drawback about D.L. Mack's. Joshua did a good job of taking care of me even though he and his colleagues behind the bar were in constant motion the whole time I was there. D.L. Mack's was a nice, upscale pizza joint, something that I wasn't expecting when I walked in. And, unfortunately, the prices reflected that.