I was in St. Louis recently and was in the mood for a burger. I had a place on my "Restaurants to Visit" list for quite some time - The Dam - but digging more into more info on the place, I found that it was carry-out only. However, I found out that The Dam was part of a trio of establishments that featured a Mexican restaurant and a sports bar that allowed food from both the Mexican restaurant and The Dam to be brought in. I ended up heading over to the Amsterdam Tavern for a couple beers and a burger from The Dam.
Jeff Lyell wasn't much into soccer when he partnered with brothers Matt and Rob Stelzer to open the Amsterdam Tavern in 2008 to cater to soccer fans in the city. Lyell quickly found out that soccer fans of teams from around the world - and primarily the Premier League in the U.K. - would come to the little tavern to watch matches of their favorite teams. St. Louis may be known as a baseball town, but it has a deep base of soccer fans as there are a number of youth to adult programs in and around the area and have been for years.
As the Amsterdam Tavern's reputation grew, it built a back beer garden with flat screen televisions. On some of the bigger matches - especially during the World Cup - the Amsterdam Tavern will sometimes get permission to close down the street in front of the establishment and show the contest on a large projection screen.
But the Amsterdam Tavern didn't have a kitchen and fans who would come to watch the soccer matches would sometimes want food. Matt Stelzer had a friend and former high school classmate - Michele Coen - who knew her way around a kitchen. In addition to a catering company she was just getting off the ground, she had worked at a handful of restaurants over the years. A space next to the Amsterdam Tavern had opened up and Stelzer and Lyell teamed up with Coen to open a little counter-only/take-out burger joint. The Dam opened in August of 2013.
Michele Coen had most recently worked at a popular burger joint in the Delmar Loop - Big V's Burger Joint - before it closed down in 2008. One of the people who worked there with her was a young guy by the name of Matt Galati. Galati and Coen had also worked at Onesto and the Mad Tomato Italian Kitchen, and Galati was doing some chef work with Coen's catering company. Coen brought Galati with her to The Dam and the two worked on the food offerings that they would serve at the restaurant.
(Earlier this year, Lyell and Stelzer - along with Locoz Tacos food truck owner Tyler Garcia - opened Tres Equis (Three X's), a full service Mexican restaurant next door to The Dam. The Amsterdam Tavern and Tres Equis share the same outdoor beer garden for al fresco dining.)
The Amsterdam Tavern is located on Morgan Ford Road just south of Tower Grove Park. (see map) I was able to find parking just a block south of the tavern and walked back up the street and went in. The Amsterdam Tavern is not a big place with a bar on one side and a handful of high-top tables on the opposite wall. When I walked in, their sound system was playing a cut by The Cult. I immediately liked the place. In fact, their music selection during the time I was there was stellar with songs from the likes of Steely Dan, Smashing Pumpkins, K-Smoove and Cream.
The Amsterdam Tavern is decidedly a soccer bar with colorful flags, pennants, and banners tacked to the walls of the place. Jerseys encased in glass frames were prominent on the wall. The St. Louis Cardinals were playing baseball that evening on the flat screens around the bar, and with the time in Europe well past midnight, no soccer games were being telecast. I understand that if there's a soccer match on at the same time a Cardinals game is on, the soccer game will take precedent.
Co-owner Matt Stelzer was working the bar that evening and I took a long hard look at the selection of beer they had on tap. The Amsterdam Tavern featured the usual suspects of European imports as well as a number of American and locally brewed craft beers. I found that they had 16 ounce cans of Citywide American pale ale from the 4 Hands Brewing Company located in St. Louis. I ordered one of those from Matt.
I ventured out to the beer garden to take a look around. It was a much larger space with a bar, covered patio, and a number of flat screen televisions throughout the patio. A few people were hanging out at the picnic tables enjoying a very nice evening.
I made sure it was OK to leave my beer at the bar to go order food next door. Matt told me that he'd watch it for me. I went next door to The Dam and found a brightly colored small space with a small counter and a kitchen in the back. The kitchen at The Dam also serves as the main kitchen for Michele Coen's catering business.
The menu was on the wall and I took a few moments to check it out before ordering. Burgers were the main focus at The Dam. All of the beef used for their burgers is locally-sourced, anti-biotic, and hormone-free. They featured a number of specialty burgers including The Animal - a triple hand-pattied burger with American cheese, grilled onions, jalapeños, bacon and a barbecue sauce. The Animal migrated from Big V's Burger Joint with Coen and Galati as it was a extremely popular burger when both worked there. Other specialty burgers included a single patty burger with pepper jack cheese, chili, jalapeños and a fried egg, and a Belgian burger with smoked Gouda, bacon, cole slaw and a house-made Belgian sauce. They had "build-your-own" burgers at The Dam with toppings such as seven different types of cheese, sautéed mushrooms, avocado slices, and lettuce and tomato.
The Dam also featured their version of fish and chips for the English soccer enthusiasts next door, as well as a BTLA - a bacon, tomato, lettuce and avocado sandwich. (I make something similar at home only I add fresh basil to the sandwich.) They also had a grilled chicken sandwich on sourdough bread. And The Dam also had a handful of hot dogs including a Chicago-style hot dog, a chili-cheese dog, and a bacon-wrapped hot dog that is deep-fried and topped with shredded cheese, grilled onions, tomatoes and jalapeños.
I went with one of the specialty burgers - the Magic Mushroom. It featured two beef patties on sourdough bread topped with a combination of Swiss and Gouda cheese, then finished with a mushroom mix with garlic mayo. I also got a side of their hand-cut Belgian-style fries. The fries were thick cut, crispy and came with a choice of dipping sauce. They had about a dozen different sauces to choose from including a curry and onion sauce, a sweet-chili mayo sauce, a caper-relish mayo sauce, and a cheese-ale sauce. I ended up getting the garlic mayo sauce, just like I had on the burger.
Taking it back to the Amsterdam Tavern and settling in at the bar, I pulled the burger and the fries out of the bag and set it up on the bar top. The burger was very good - the sourdough bread was grilled to a light golden hue, the burger patties were moist and juicy, and had a great flavor. The combination of the Swiss and Gouda cheese, along with the mushroom mixture with the garlic mayo dressing made it a pretty messy burger. I'm glad I grabbed about a half-dozen napkins at The Dam as I pretty much used them all.
The fries were crispy with the skin still on the outside, but nice and moist - and greasy - inside. The garlic mayo sauce was fine - I thought it could have been a little big more forward with the garlic, but it was OK for what it was. This was a huge burger with a lot of fries and I found that I couldn't eat the whole thing. I left a couple bites of the burger and a handful of fries in the bag for Matt to toss out when I was finished.
I had wanted to try The Dam for their burgers for some time, but didn't want to do the carry-out. But when I found out that I could take the food to the Amsterdam Tavern next door and eat there, I was happy that I finally took the time to head over there for a burger. The Magic Mushroom burger on sourdough bread was very good, and the Belgian-style fries were good, as well. The Amsterdam Tavern had a fine selection of beers and had some pretty interesting soccer memorabilia on display. Both were fun and funky little joints, and while I'm not much of a soccer enthusiast, I can see why people will drive upwards of 80 miles one way to hang out and watch soccer matches at the Amsterdam Tavern while being able to get a good burger next door at The Dam.