When I was in St. Joseph, MN, a small community outside of St. Cloud, earlier this year, I ended up going to Bad Habit Brewing Company to check that place out on the advice of one of the guys who worked at my account in St. Cloud. (Click here to read about my visit to Bad Habit Brewing.) I was sort of surprised that literally across the street from Bad Habit Brewing was a New Orleans-inspired restaurant by the name of Krewe. After finishing up at Bad Habit, I ventured across the street to Krewe to have dinner.
It turned out that I was somewhat familiar with the owners of Krewe - they had been the owners of Model Citizen, a small restaurant that was formerly in Goat Ridge Brewing in New London, MN, a great little brewery that my wife and I fell in love with during our vacation in the Spicer/New London area a couple years ago. Mateo Mackbee and Erin Rae Lucas met when he was a chef and she was a server at the now-closed Mozza Mia in the Minneapolis suburb of Edina. While Lucas was a trained pastry chef, Mackbee grew up in a household with family recipes of Cajun and Creole food passed down to his Louisiana-born mother. In the summers, Mackbee would go to New Orleans and help his grandfather who was a chef in a restaurant where the young Mackbee would learn more trade secrets from him.
Looking for a change in scenery, Mackbee and Lucas had the opportunity to move to rural west-central Minnesota and open Model Citizen, a restaurant that relied upon locally-grown foods. (Click here to see the Road Tips entry on Model Citizen and Goat Ridge Brewing Company.) Even the shrimp Mackbee used in some of his Creole-inspired dishes came from a former cattle farm in the area. Mackbee, a black man in an overwhelmingly white area of Minnesota, had faced some racial issues with some of the locals while in New London, but he was able to work through the problems and Model Citizen gained a loyal following.
Pictured right - Erin Lucas and Mateo Mackbee. Photo courtesy New York Times.
One of their fans was a St. Joseph real estate agent/developer by the name of Jon Petters. Petters was in the process of building a new mixed use residential/commerical building in downtown St. Joseph - 24 North Lofts - and he had a space that he wanted Lucas and Mackbee to fill. Lucas had put her culinary degree as a pastry chef to use while in New London and the couple wanted to have a Cajun/Creole restaurant and a bakery as part of their new venture. Petters was able to get them a space next to the restaurant space he had in mind for the couple. Lucas opened Flour and Flower, a Scandinavian-style bakery and coffee house - in February of 2020. The pandemic hit just before the couple was going to open their restaurant, but they were finally able to open the door to Krewe in late May 2020.
On the logo for Krewe, it shows that the restaurant was established in 1944. Mackbee explained in an article in the New York Times that it was more of a tribute to his mother, a long-time Twin Cities educator, who was born in 1944 and who still oversees some of the food recipes Mackbee uses in his restaurant. (Mackbee's father was former Minnesota Vikings linebacker Earsell Mackbee.)
Krewe occupies the prime location in 24 North Lofts along College Avenue N. in downtown St. Joseph. (see map) Parking for the restaurant is available on College Ave. and other side streets near Krewe. I had parked in the lot behind Bad Habit Brewing and walked out the front door of the brewery and across the street to Krewe.
The interior of Krewe featured a contemporary design with bold colored walls. The building faced the west so a lot of late afternoon light filled the dining room. The open kitchen was fronted by a raw bar with oysters on ice in front of the seating area. The dining room was filled with Zydeco music from New Orleans giving it a true Crescent City feeling.
The three-sided bar featured colorful ceramic tiles on the face. A single television sat on the wall of the back bar. They had three bartenders working that evening and I ended up taking a seat in the center of the bar. I looked to my left and Mateo Mackbee was seated at the corner talking with a patron. I doubted he would have remembered me from our earlier visits to Model Citizen in New London.
The bartender who waited on me that evening was Jack, a jovial and outgoing kind of guy. He gave me a food menu and asked me what I wanted to drink. They had a number of local craft beers on tap including beers from Modist, Fair State Co-op, Excelsior and Beaver Island Brewing Co. They even had Hamm's on tap! Their beverage menu featured a lot of wines to choose from, but I did notice that they had Kona Big Wave available in bottles. I asked Jack to get me one of those.
The menu at Krewe wasn't all that long, but it was more than what Mackbee and Lucas offered at Model Citizen. In addition to oysters on the half-shell, Krewe offered appetizers such as hushpuppies, crab cakes, and boudin lumpia - Creole-seasoned braised pork with rice and in a rice paper wrapper. Items such as crawfish étouffée, Creole mussels, and barbecued shrimp were available either as a main entree or a shared dish. Also available as a shared entree was a 22 ounce ribeye, a smoked - then grilled - half chicken served with an Alabama white barbecue sauce, and a whole grilled fish with marinated onions and peppers all served with a roasted red pepper chimichurri.
The main entrees included a number of Louisiana favorites - smothered catfish, a thick-cut pork chop with onion gravy, red beans and rice, and a house gumbo that was made from a recipe Mackbee got handed down from his grandfather. The smoked and seared duck breast with scallion pancakes also interested me.
But in the end, I went with the shrimp jambalaya. I'd had Mackbee's jambalaya during one of our visits to Model Citizen a couple three years ago. It was true jambalaya made with the holy trinity of onions, celery and bell peppers in a tomato broth with a generous portion of shrimp mixed in with andouille sausage, chunks of chicken breast, ham and finish with a dollop of jasmine rice. It was just as good as I remembered from Model Citizen. It was a hearty meal, had a bit of a spicy bite to it, and the overall flavor was outstanding. The jambalaya was a bit salty for my taste, but that wasn't a deal breaker. The jambalaya at Krewe was more than worthy of any Cajun or Creole restaurant I've been in over the years.
Krewe is one of those places that seems sort of out of place in a small college town in the middle of Minnesota. And Mateo Mackbee's and Erin Lucas' back story of how they got to this place in their life is quite interesting. The jambalaya I had was very good and Mackbee acquits himself quite well as a Cajan/Creole chef in the middle of the heartland. From the comfortable atmosphere with Zydeco music playing in the background to the friendly and prompt service to the authentic New Orleans-style food, Krewe is certainly a great destination for good food. I can only hope they're able to maintain the clientele to keep them going for years to come. But with their food, it shouldn't be hard.